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I recently replaced my leaking condensate pipe that was crusty and rusted. I've replaced it with a 1" copper pipe in the same position the old galvanized pipe was. Please see the picture I've attached.

My question and concern that I have is that, the previous pipe that was on the floor of the basement was extrememly rusted. Much more than the vertical standing pipes made from the same material. Since I put the pipe in the same place, near the ground of the basement, would the pipe corrode faster from being so close to the basement floor?

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Furnace

  • What's the make and model of the boiler? – Tester101 Mar 24 '16 at 19:42
  • The third picture shows the pipe conneceted to the furnace and I attached a picture of the furnace as well. I was reading online about furnaces since I wanted to figure out what type mine was. Does the fourth picture show if my furnace is a two pipe steam furnace or single pipe? – mkng07 Mar 26 '16 at 5:27
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Yes, the floor was the downfall of the old pipe, the copper will do much better. While everything looks dry, the floor & bottom of the wall concrete is moist from microscopic condensation, since they're always colder than the air.

Starting the condensate pipe as high as possible will minimize pipe problems & more importantly draining problems. You want the pipe pitched downward for as far as possible to the sump.

Preferably the pipe should never be flat or level & it should have a close by trap, like under your sink. The pipe should also have a clean-out, this is actually a bleach pour-in. Condensate is quite nasty & stinks if the pipe's not bleached once a year or as needed.

  • Thanks, that ansswered my question. Unfortunately the pipe is already laid down with about a .5" clearance off the ground. Thats better than before, as the old galvinized pipe was embedded into the floor. Would insulation help in my situation or would it be advisable to redo it since i already took down the wall? – mkng07 Mar 24 '16 at 0:49
  • Glad I could help. I'd say no on the insulation for as-is, that'll make the pipe flatter. But, if you can re-do it to legal & proper, then by all means do that. You'd just slip on pipe insulation at the end that contacts the floor. – Iggy Mar 24 '16 at 1:11
  • isn't PVC not suitable for hot water? The water that flows through the pipe is very hot. – mkng07 Mar 26 '16 at 5:29
  • Yeah, PVC is only good for 140° maximum. Up to & after that it can sag badly & joints can fall apart. Stick with the copper. – Iggy Mar 26 '16 at 11:41
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    I am sorry Iggy, but you must not have any experience with steam systems. Bleaching is never used in steam return lines or anywhere in a steam system. The condensate water does not get nasty. The condensate in steam systems is not the same condensate you get from a 90+ natural gas furnace. Also return lines are never insulated unless it is to cut down on over heating an area where the lines are. People that come here are looking for real answers. – d.george Jan 12 '17 at 12:23

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