My rear entrance is wood frame set in masonry (brick + terracotta brick) wall. It has aluminum flashing but it's old (way before I got the house) and the top edge isn't protected anymore (since I tore down the vinyl siding to stucco over, which hasn't yet been done), water naturally found its way between the masonry and wood/flashing so I need to devise a solution how this entry can be wateeproofed.

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My initial thoughts were to take a 2-1/2 to 3" lintel plate (each side of the L measuring that much) and anchor it horozontally along the top to the brick that can be seen in the first photo using lead anchors in the masonry. That would create that deep a cover over the head piece of PT 2x4 (which will of course also be replaced, along with its flashing) so that the joint between the wood/flashing and brick isn't directly exposed, i.e. has something over it.

Q1: What do you think of the above plan?

Q2: If favorable, should the lintel be installed so the the mating surface is above the horizontal plate (_|) or below (7, with upright bottom line). I'm inclined to go with above and then stucco over the mating side and caulk the joint because I'd like to have clear access to the brick to anchor the 2x4.

Q3: Should I go with an aluminum ($$), stainless steel ($$$), or regular steel ($) lintel, the last option assuming paint?

  • Even with anchors you would want to add a sealer behind what ever you install. Then add your new stucco and it should have a little extra protection because the Stucco will extend beyond the sealed surface.
    – Ed Beal
    Mar 10, 2016 at 0:13

1 Answer 1


I don't like the plan & only think your plan, which will work fine, would only perpetuate errors. You got rid of the siding, so now it's time to get rid of the trim.

The trim should not be there AT ALL & top rightfully want's off anyway. The bottom entrance should be exactly like the top window. Nothing sticking out & stucco right over the existing top lentil, which is currently covered by the entrance trim.

That trim looks to be just face applied 1x3 enveloped in flashing & should pop right off. If anything goes on the wall, I'd vote for giving yourself an upgrade over the doors. Do a 2' or 3' Awning Roof over the door, just Tapcon & Lag a 12" tall (whatever pitch you desire) triangle cage into the brick mortar (never into the brick) & then Tapcon aluminum flashing over the awning roof's seam to then stucco over.

  • What you're suggesting is way too much work and not feasible at this point
    – amphibient
    Mar 10, 2016 at 1:12
  • Sorry, the awning roof was just a later perk that you might consider. All I was saying is to remove that nonsense around the doors & save yourself some work & worry. You'd just remove that top piece, which is almost off anyway, to see what's what. Then, just put it back if it doesn't work out to go ahead with your plan.
    – Iggy
    Mar 10, 2016 at 1:34

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