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I have a fixture that uses one 36" T12 lamp. The recommended replacement ballast is a GE140RS120DIY. I am unable to find that ballast. I purchased a GE240RS120DIY ballast and wired it in. I wire nutted the two yellow wires with one nut to a wire. The new ballast is for two 48" lamps vs. one 36" lamp. It won't light and I'm wondering the reason why. Is there a way to wire it so it will work? Right now I'm two red to one end, and two blue to the other end of the 30 watt lamp.

  • Why not trade the whole thing in for an LED shop light? They cost about the same as a replacement transformer, use less wattage and should last much longer. They also avoid the problem of breakage and disposal of mercury containing fluorescent tubes. – bib Feb 27 '16 at 14:08
  • Or simply an LED "tube" that fits into the lampholders, and rewire the lampholder on one end to supply 120v direct (per the tube's instructions). Of course this requires a non-shunted lampholder on the 120v end, – Harper Feb 27 '16 at 15:37
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Many ballast can be connected to 1 or 2 lamps some different lengths. The wiring may be different than your original (colors) look at the picture on the front of the ballast if it only shows connections for 2 lamps it probably will not work with just 1 lamp. This ballast should work found on line 13$. Fulham Fluorescent Electronic Ballast 120V for for (1-2) F32T8 (2) F25T8, F32T8, F25T12, F30T12, F3... by Fulham

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You're wiring it contrary to its wiring diagram (on the label and on the spec sheet, found by googling GE240RS120DIY (you misspelled the part number). A single F30T12 is also not supported by that ballast.

Look for other ballasts which will support that bulb such as the GE240RS-MV-N.

You can also look for ballasts which take T8 bulbs. T8 bulbs will physically fit in T12 fixtures, however they do need a matching T8 ballast.

Edit: BETTER YET, get an LED "tube" replacement. It looks like a fluorescent tube, but it's made of LEDs. Here's the gotcha. Some of them, you rewire the fixture to put 120v directly on the pins of the ballast (called direct-wire). Others are "plug and play", meaning they cope with the weird voltages that come out of a ballast, and expect you to leave the old ballast in place. This is marketed as a time-saver, but is worse than useless if your goal is to get rid of the ballast entirely. You want 'direct-wire' if you go that way.

Your fluorescent tube has 2 pins on each end. Look closely at the sockets aka lampholders aka "tombstones". There are non-shunting and shunting types. A non-shunting lampholder has 2 pairs of stab connections, each pair goes to one pin on the bulb. A shunting lampholder allows only 1 pair, and shunts the two pins together internally. Rapid and programmed start ballasts use non-shunting, that is, 2 wires to each lampholder. Instant start ballasts use shunting lampholders (or non-shunting that you have jumpered) and have 1 wire per lampholder. If your lampholders are shunting, and your ballast supplies 2 wires to each tube end, you need to replace them with non-shunting. This is no big deal, they are pretty standard and cost between 60 cents and $3. A direct-wire LED conversion may require a non-shunting lampholder on one end or both.

  • Wolf, I would like to say thank you for all of your information. As long as I've been at this, fluorescent fixtures are still a mystery to me (or at least when they aren't working). This fixture is in my own home in a dropped ceiling that I'm going to eliminate one of these days. I replaced the ballast and everything is working. The info on T8 substitution and shunting vs non-shunting tombstones is something I need to know. I really do appreciate your help and am sorry I didn't respond more timely. This is my first knowledge of Stack Exchange. Guys like you make it a very valuable resource. – builder Mar 9 '16 at 16:45

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