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I intentionally left a 8cm gap between laminate and a wall because there was an uneven wood beam in the concrete along the wall. I had the same problem in another room and I just put laminate over the bump and seems OK, so I think leaving the gap was a mistake.

Is there any way to fill that gap so that it ends up being same level as the rest of the floor. Ideally without a transition piece that sticks out of the floor (like a t mold). For example, one solution would be to glue many 8cm short laminate planks and effectively lengthen the existing pieces. But I'm afraid it won't look nice and moreover some of the ends of the existing pieces are not perfectly straight as they were cut.

picture

  • A picture of the border between the laminate and the window would be helpful, or perhaps a sectional plan of that angle. – Daniel Griscom Feb 23 '16 at 12:31
  • With the laminate flooring I have installed there is supposed to be a gap between the end and the wall. I normally use a baseboard attached to the wall co cover the gap. Since your gap is quite large could you cut a straight line the entire length and add an accent strip to get close enough to cover the gap with base board? – Ed Beal Feb 23 '16 at 14:48
  • Is it exactly 8cm? I had this problem in an old house that had plaster walls and had gaps between moulding and floor of about 2 inches but not quite the 8cm you're describing. We used a piece of routed 5/4 as base moulding with a shoe and then a cap. this bought us about the 2 inches we needed. 8cm though is pushing it, but you might be able to fabricate something with a heavy base moulding. Our ceilings are 10 foot though, not sure how it would look with a 7-8 foot ceiling. – masedesign Feb 23 '16 at 16:03
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    Would love to see an actual photo, could provide best advice that way. – masedesign Feb 23 '16 at 16:05
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If your floors have their seams lined-up like the diagram (very wrong), it looks quite bad already so adding a bunch of scraps on the end won't hurt. The best solution is to literally start over & use as many of the old pieces in the manufacturer's instructions followed new & proper floors...that have at least 3 rows laid as a dry fit so you don't have any pieces shorter than 30cm.

Each row of planks has its butt seams offset from the next row & at least the same for a third row before you repeat. One main reason for this is exactly your situation here. Be careful & conscious with your measurements & cut 1 board at a time...do I leave the line, cut-out the line or split the line.

With varied lengths meeting the wall you can custom cut & even scribe each piece's end for a flawless fit or common very minor manufacturer's gap. Also, any ridges, popped nail heads, splintered subfloor faces, heavy paint or glue deposits, etc. should all be flattened, leveled, sanded, chiseled & removed prior to installing the new floor.

  • I seriously doubt that the OP installed the flooring with all the seams aligned. Also, most flooring (especially floating floors) require a gap at the edges. Setting it tight would be a bad idea. You mentioned that briefly, but still, even a small gap would reproduce the problem in the question. – isherwood Feb 23 '16 at 16:40
  • Yep, he/she did exactly that, at least twice. There's the diagram & they've got a big common "intentional" gap in 2 rooms because the planks weren't long enough. And no, you missed where I said in the start of the 3rd paragraph "very minor manufacturer's gap"...the "flawless fit" was just for them to follow the wall's diagonal. He/she may not have a gap anywhere already. It sounds like they slammed in right in tight with their filler to what I'm assuming is the wall's sill/sole/bottom plate. I doubt there's a vapor barrier & this stuff will pop apart & curl in 3.178 months. – Iggy Feb 23 '16 at 19:29

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