Currently, I have a single NEMA 14-30 plug in the laundry room. I also have an ASKO W6022 dryer (manual available here: https://www.manualowl.com/p/Asko/W6022/Manual/161455) and an LG DLEC855W dryer (manual available here: http://www.manualslib.com/manual/507130/Lg-Dlec855w.html).

The dryer is currently fitted with one of these: http colon //www.amazon.com/Choice-30-Amp-4-Prong-Eyelet-Terminals/dp/B00BDJU2L4

As a result, it is functional because the other end is plugged into the NEMA 14-30 plug in the room. However, the washer is currently fitted with a NEMA 6-20 and is not functional. My question is: what kind of adjustments should I make in order to have both the washer and the dryer function at the same time off of this one circuit?

I am thinking about building a custom 2 gang box that receives the HotHotNeutralGround from the dryer and the HotHotGround from the washer and then outputs a NEMA 14-30 male plug. If I go down this path, how do I connect the two Hot's together within the gang box?

BTW -- I know that running these two appliances on the same circuit sounds like a bad idea. However, our home came with it preinstalled alongside the Asko washer and a corresponding Asko dryer. It was working fine for years prior to the kids breaking the dryer recently. We upgraded the dryer to the LG one and now have this cord problem and would really love to avoid having to install a new circuit.

  • If you ever want to be dryinng one load while washing the next, that one circuit may not be enough for both machines...
    – keshlam
    Commented Feb 14, 2016 at 0:11
  • 2
    The washer manual you linked to explicitly says: "If the washer is used with ... another dryer, it must be on a separate 220V single-phase circuit."
    – Moshe Katz
    Commented Mar 7, 2017 at 13:19

3 Answers 3


Edit: EV charging solutions change everything. Install a SimpleSwitch or other "socket switcher" switch intended for EV charging.

You originally had an Asko washer/dryer matched set. This wasn't just style. The Asko washer plugged into the Asko dryer, which provided a special NEMA 6-20 receptacle on the back, specifically for an Asko washer. Why? The set is designed for high-density condos/apartments, to minimize utility hookups (no hot water, no dryer vent, no separate washer power). See page 18 of this document.

My guess is, you live in a large housing complex which found it profitable to buy the exotic Asko units to spend less on hookups. I'm also guessing you "own" rather than "rent" since a landlord would be more hands-on.

Was the electrical connection part of your buying decision? I'm sure the appliance store has sold into your housing complex before. Did they know about the peculiar Asko hookup and recommend the LG because it's compatible? If so, it should have a 6-20 outlet on the back; done.

Otherwise, aside from consumer or legal recourse against the appliance store for selling you the wrong thing, let's talk about your technical options.

  1. Obtain a dryer that is compatible with the Asko "plug washer into dryer" arrangement. Your maintenance department may have suggestions.

  2. Have maintenance pull a new wiring run to an additional NEMA 6-20 receptacle for the washer. This will be expensive (remember, this is why the complex spent extra on Asko units) but will give flexibility - letting you choose a wider selection of washer/dryers. (they still need to be water-heating/ventless).

Your dual-outlet solution is illegal and unsafe because the dryer could pull 30A while the washer pulls 15A. The Asko dryer was designed to share a 30A circuit with the washer it controls - the LG isn't. I suppose it might be possible to get a very large switch UL-listed SimpleSwitch or other dryer-switching load management solution to power EITHER the 14-30 dryer outlet OR the 6-20 washer outlet. But insurance/liability/HOA won't let you homebrew that, you'd have to hire it done, and it'd cost as much as option 2.

Don't get adapter cables and unplug the washer and plug in the dryer every load. These large outlets are not made for frequent unplugging, unless you buy high quality RV park grade sockets like the Hubbell or Bryant.

Or just ditch the dryer and hang clothesline... in the kid's room... the one who broke the dryer!

Edit: ah, the things EV charging teaches!

  • Thanks Wolf! This all made a ton of sense. Appreciate it.
    – jdoefoshoe
    Commented Feb 16, 2016 at 17:37

You cannot do what you propose. You cannot run the washer on the 30A circuit of the dryer.

If you now have a 20A/240V circuit, as long as it is dedicated to the washer, you can easily convert it to 20A/120V, if that's what you need. I am a bit confused as to what you have and what you need.

Either way, it sounds like you have what will work, but there is a problem with something. DO NOT try to makeshift something using only the dryer circuit.

  • But it used to work: 1 Dryer curcuit powered both the dryer and the washer. Mr Petey, isn't it just a question of plugs at this point?
    – jdoefoshoe
    Commented Feb 14, 2016 at 6:49
  • @jdoefoshoe, no, not at all. One is a 20A circuit and the other is a 30A circuit. This matters. Commented Feb 14, 2016 at 12:01
  • how does it matter? Could you please elaborate?
    – jdoefoshoe
    Commented Feb 14, 2016 at 15:53
  • @jdoefoshoe, because by code you cannot have a 20A receptacle on a 30A circuit. Also, the listing of the washer likely requires it to be on a 20A, or possibly 15A, circuit. Commented Feb 14, 2016 at 15:55
  • @jdoefoshoe, how did it work before? Commented Feb 14, 2016 at 15:55

It worked before because the rating of the two original units is within the 30 amp spec. And the machine that provides power to the other via plug would have its own internal breaker or fuse to protect at a lower amperage trip the other machine. You could install a small pony panel with the correct breaker protection for both machines and run the corresponding receptacles from the pony panel this would protect both correctly and if an overload issue occurred with both on the breaker of your main panel feeding the pony would trip. This is not btw to code but would work safely. Only problem running both 8f it doesn't trip would be the sensitivity of the electronics to voltage fluctuations when both are operating. If you run one at a time then no issues. Proper option to code is to run another circuit.

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