Trying to wire 2 fixtures with power coming in at one of them. Can I run a single 14/3 from powered fixture to 2 gang switches, then branch from the powered fixture to the remote one? Thanks for any advice!
Based on your description, this would be the wiring setup. The yellow 'smudges' are wire nuts and the black ones are re-identified wires, grounds are not shown. Power coming in with /2, feeding down to the switch box with /3, and then going over to the secondary light with /2. I'm only showing this based on perhaps if you're trying to reuse existing wiring with a new setup as this is a working solution.
However, code-wise [ 404.2(C) ] this is no longer allowed. You are required to have a neutral splice at your switch box unless this lighting circuit will be located in a location where the switch does not serve a habitable room or bathroom, such as in an attic. So, as long as your lights aren't in a "habitable room or bathroom", you are able to go with this wiring diagram. [ 404.2(C)(4) ]
The other exception would be as long as you are able to get back to the box later on to add a neutral without disturbing the finish of the wall. [ 404.2(C)(2) ]
I assume you want to control both fixtures separately, since you said "2 gang switches".
Not with a single 14/3, you can't. A 12/4 would do the job. Leaving grounds and neutrals out of the discussion: you need a black for your always-hot down to the switches, the red for the switched hot back to fixture #1. To control fixture #2, you need a third "hot" and 14/3 doesn't provide it.
Edit: You can get 12/4 NM, that will solve your problem (but leave you no further room for expansion.) A quality electrical supply house will sell it by the foot. It's used for just this sort of application. It may also exist in 14/4 NM, but you're better off using 12 gauge wire anyway. 14 only exists so contractors can work fast and cheap, homeowners can afford paying 20% more for the good stuff, and have time to do it right. (14 works with "back stabs", 12 often doesn't and requires stopping to put
If possible, I really recommend fitting 3/4" conduit, preferably EMT, between your powered fixture and the gang switch. Now you can pull anything you want anytime you want. I suggest 3/4" because it's easier to pull than 1/2". EMT because it's steel so it provides a ground - that's one less wire to pull. Pull single-conductor THHN because it lets you pull exactly what you need for the job, Your local electrical supply can give you unusual colors by the foot, so your work is clear - I'd use yellow and orange for the 2 switched hots.