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I was commissioned to create a butcher block table and cutting board from poplar, walnut, cherry and ash. Despite best efforts, both pieces have some voids which the Titebond III didn't fill. I am thinking of filling the smaller cracks with hide glue and the larger voids with a mix of hide glue and wood dust. Ideas or suggestions? Thanks.
I used 1.5" roughsawn for the ash, cherry and walnut, and planed random pieces, glued up strips... all to recreate an end grain butcher block table which I didn't really expect to be used as a butcher block. I don't know that the glue-up at this point would be deemed unsafe for food contact, but the voids certainly have to be filled. Had I known it would be used as a cutting block, I would probably have insisted on hard maple.

  • Is this a end grain butcher block table as used in old school butcher shops? Will the surface be used for food prep? – Jack Jan 14 '16 at 0:55
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    This would be an excellent question for the woodworking SE – BrownRedHawk Jan 14 '16 at 13:01
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If you can, I would recommend cutting down the joint with a thin bandsaw blade & then machining both pieces with a jointer to get the super tight fit that you really should have between your boards. The reason I suggest this is that cutting boards can give up particles when sliced/chopped on that would end up on the food that is processed on the cutting board (especially meat)--which I doubt you or anyone else would want to eat, due to the toxicity of adhesives.

If, on the other hand, you can find a non-toxic bonding adhesive then the above suggestion could be avoided.

hth best regards!

  • This would be especially true for the cutting board which may see some wet service, that can break down the adhesive over time unless it's 'waterproof'. – BrownRedHawk Jan 14 '16 at 13:02
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I think you are on the right track. I would mix glue and sawdust until a got the consistency I wanted and use that as filler.

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