I'm sure I can figure out a way to mount the recessed I reclaimed, which are missing the bar hangers; however, does anyone have any previous experience in doing so?
4
-
How about a photo of the lights? My crystal ball is too dark to see them!– DoxyLoverJan 5, 2016 at 23:56
-
I figured recessed lighting is recessed lighting but here you go. Each side has two bars that slide past each other to adjust to the width between joists.– Evil ElfJan 6, 2016 at 3:17
-
1The lights are only $8 a piece, but the idea of reusing lights instead of ending up in a landfill is appealing. The bar hangers I have found online are $4 per light. Forget that.– Evil ElfJan 6, 2016 at 13:55
-
I have never really cared about points/ratings on this site and all three answers given are legit. Do I simply leave the question unanswered then?– Evil ElfJan 9, 2016 at 14:01
Add a comment
|
3 Answers
Sure, just rotate them 90° and attach them to a ceiling joist with nails or screws through the bracket where the bars used to go.
Of course then you have no adjustment for placement between joists.
-
Then allow the drywall to further support the light? Or use wood to support the other side and nail the wood into the opposite joist?– Evil ElfJan 6, 2016 at 3:20
-
The drywall can support them just fine. Can lights don't weigh very much. The hangers are mostly for spacing and maintaining the position while the drywall is being installed. Without the bars though you won't be able to reliably place any fixtures in between the ceiling joists. Each one will have to be attached to a joist. This also makes finishing the drywall a little more difficult if there is a seam on that joist since it is right next to a light. Jan 6, 2016 at 9:39
-
Notice in the picture you posted, the 3 keyholes holes on either side of the fixture can actually be used to attach them to a joist without the bars. Jan 6, 2016 at 9:42
-
I agree with @archonosx, many of the remodel can lights clip to the sheetrock as thier only form of support. so that sugestion would be better.– Ed BealJan 6, 2016 at 14:13
Why not just use lumber? Run two boards between trusses where the bars were, then screw the can housings to that through the vertical flanges.
I applaud your motivation to reuse hardware in this throwaway society. The financial cost of the product isn't the only cost. That steel and the work to galvanize and form it takes a lot of energy, chemicals, and water.
answered Jan 6, 2016 at 14:17
-
I think this is the way to probably go if I want to go between joists, if not, just nail them the side. Issue with the wood bar hangers is I will have to lower each can and then use the set screw to bring the can flush with the ceiling.– Evil ElfJan 6, 2016 at 19:27
-
I don't see the connection between can mounting and bulb depth adjustment. Jan 6, 2016 at 19:28
-
That image above is just something I grabbed off the web to show the bar hangers. The internal cylinder on the ones I have can be lowered. I imagine this is in case another layer of ceiling is added. H7T from Halo is the model I reclaimed. I think the one above has the ability as well. You can see a dark black screw in a slot.– Evil ElfJan 7, 2016 at 1:58
-
I like the idea of just framing some lumber for fixtures that you want between joists. Jan 7, 2016 at 11:46
This gadget, the Caddy TSGB16, would probably work
with the keyholes in the plate in your picture.
edit: it's available for $2.12 online, may be available cheaper at a local electrical supply or industrial supply.
answered Jan 6, 2016 at 12:45
-
Link broken. I'd guess that this product costs more than new cans would. Jan 6, 2016 at 14:15
-
@isherwood - link works for me, just google the part number if it doesn't work for you, they're available online for $2.12, local prices may be lower. Jan 6, 2016 at 14:36
-