A recent rainstorm caused a heavy cypress tree branch to fall on my outdoor office/shed. Thankfully, the interior and underlying structure appears to have not sustained any damage however the asphalt shingles got dinged in three places:

Spot #1: Roof shingle cap ding:

Roof shingle cap ding

Spot #2: Shingle in the middle of roof:

shingle in middle of roof enter image description here

Spot #3: Shingle on rain drip edge:

enter image description here enter image description here

I JUST finished the roof a few months ago and it's in otherwise fine shape so I'm reluctant to tear the whole thing up. Is there anything I can do to patch the damaged area without having to incur a lot of cost? As far as I can see, the underlayment is still intact.

  • 1
    Definatly NOT a tear off, these are simple quick fixes. It is all in how its done. Answers soon – Jack Dec 27 '15 at 2:10
  • This is a newly laid roof, patches with cement will not last as long as the rest of the roof should. I have personally done this type of repair. After I am up on the roof with tools in hand, it takes about 15 minutes for each spot to repair so it is just like it was before the tree fell. – Jack Dec 27 '15 at 7:18

All the shingles you have pictured need to be replaced. It is a matter of easing up the shingles far enough to gain access to the nails, pull them out without ripping the shingle(s) up, it will also require easing up the shingles above the damaged ones and pull THOSE nail out of the way too since they are going through the top of the next course down. Eventually the shingle will practically fall out and you can replace the shingle in reverse order.

If you are fortunate, the roof has not gotten hot enough to bond the shingles together. On 3 tab shingles the asphalt dabs that come with the shingle to bond the tabs of one row to another are easy to separate. The architectural shingles I replaced my 3 tab shingles with, the asphalt dabs were a different story. The three tab shingles popped up best while the roof was cool, while the architectural shingles needed a heat gun set to get the shingles really hot, but not so hot to melt them (the shingles), but enough to get the bond to release. I hope you do not have to go that route.

I use a ripping bar to ease the shingles up, I have not had any luck with any other style bar, unless I sharpened the edge a bit.

ripping bar Shingle repair enter image description here

  • Great answer....especially adding the small diagram showing why two rows of shingles need to be replaced. – Michael Karas Dec 27 '15 at 8:30
  • Thanks, just to reiterate, it is reallly only 2 rows of nails neded to be rmoved to get one row out, but in the OP's case he will need to remove 2 shingles. The roof is so new, it would be a shame to go that far for repairs, after all he will be up there and once one is removed, the second one is REALLY easy, that the ones with the cracked corner could be replaced while he is at it. – Jack Dec 27 '15 at 17:39

If none of the shingles have been punctured through to the roof felt than it is just a matter of flatting them back down and applying a dab of roof patch to their undersides.

Looking at your photo's All the damage appears to be superficial with basic repairs needed. Seeing how the roof was completed a short time ago you should have no trouble locating one or so extra?

Shingle #2 from your photo's looks to be in need of replacement due to the wide gouge. With a flat pry bar carefully probe your way under the damaged shingle until you contact the roof nails affixing it to the sheathing (each shingle will be secured by four equidistant roof nails). Tap and pry them up as attentively as possible to avoid collateral damage to undamaged shingles.

With the nails removed the shingle should slid away with minimal effort. Replacement is in reverse order (but without the pry bar).

If any depressions remain after repairing them trowel some roof patch into it and with shingle granules collected from the gutter sprinkle until full and press down.

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