In the process of a failed attempt at fixing our dishwasher, I turned off the hot water valve beneath the sink. After turning it back on, the hot water side of the faucet no longer works!

Our faucet looks like this, with a single lever to switch between hot/cold. The faucet is attached to a long hose so it can be pulled out. The "cold side" works just fine, but turning the handle to the "hot side" results in the flow of water stopping. kitchen faucet

Beneath the sink there are two twist valves- one for hot water and one for cold water. I am able to turn the cold valve on/off and it stops/resumes flowing water as expected, unfortunately this is not the case with the hot water valve. With the hot water valve open and the faucet turned on (on the hot-side) I can feel the hose that connects the valve to the faucet head warming up. This leads me to believe that perhaps the valve inside the faucet has failed?

Is there anything I can do to further troubleshoot the issue, or should I call a plumber?


Chances are either the valve seal has disintegrated and clogged the line, or other sediment has broken free and done the same.

Disassembling a faucet is usually fairly simple. Remove the set screw retaining the handle, then start removing the exposed nut, washers, and valve components. Lay them out in order for correct reassembly. Check for damage and debris.

If your valves are not soldered in (if they're installed using compression fittings), replacement is fairly simple. It's a good opportunity for even an occasional DIYer to get his hands dirty. Post a photo or accurate description for more assistance.

  • I'm in a big association building, I can't see the under-side of the valves (i.e., where the supply lines come from) but coming out of the valves (e.g., to the faucet and dishwasher) are stainless flexible hoses that mate to copper hard line coming from the faucet head. If all of the connections are indeed compression fittings (couldn't really see the flex line to copper line connection) then I'll pull it all apart and see what the deal is, definitely seems like water is getting past the valve so that leaves the faucet as the only remaining culprit. Thank you for your prompt & helpful answer! – John Hall Dec 21 '15 at 18:11

You need to isolate the blockage, and the valve is the more likely location. Disconnect the faucet from the valve and run a line into a bucket (preferably using a sink/toilet flexible supply line). Open the valve and see if you get full pressure.

If you don't get full pressure, the valve is shot, replace it. They are fairly cheap and the 1/4 turn style with a compression attachment is both easy to install and much less likely to fail the way older gate valves do.

If you do get full pressure from the test, then debris has made it into the faucet but not to the aerator. Best place to look is in the mixing cartridge and that requires some disassembly of the fixture. If it's not at the cartridge, then you can try running water through the fixture with the cartridge removed to see if you can clear out the supply line.

  • Thanks for the prompt and helpful response! It seems like water is getting past the valve (i.e., no blockage) but I will confirm tonight after work by shutting off the valve, disconnecting the hose, and turning the valve back open (with the hose in a bucket!). – John Hall Dec 21 '15 at 18:12

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