I'm installing baseboard for the first time and I keep noticing when doing 45° cuts the top is sticking out a fraction more than the bottom, see picture. I'm using a dewalt 716 miter saw and have used multiple tools to test and the saw in tuned in properly but still am having this issue.
1If you have a speed square / right angle line up the cuts on that and see if theres still a gap.. If there is, it's the saw, if there isn't, it's the floor / wall most likely– cutrightjmDec 13, 2015 at 1:47
I'm assuming you're holding the stock upright against the fence. This might be caused by your fence not being tall enough... in other words, you're holding the back of the trim against the fence, but it's canted very slightly back because of the relief cuts in the back of the trim. Add a taller accessory fence to both sides to contact the top and bottom of your trim.– Aloysius DefenestrateDec 13, 2015 at 21:35
I'm having this same issue, did you ever figure out what was going wrong? I have now tried 2 different Miter saws on two different corners and am getting the same result.– crmackeyApr 16, 2019 at 20:49
Not every corner is perfect, and some adjustment is needed for every cut in some cases.
Either the cut is not square, and the saw is still not adjusted, or the wall is bumped out at the bottom. If that is the case the wall can be carved back behind the base or the base can be thinned down on the back to get the corner to come together.
thanks, I'm testing out my miter to really see if it's in tune, when at 0° it is perfect but I think the 45° may be a half degree off, though if I move the degree plate over on the dewalt saw it would then set my 0° cut off– GreenhoeDec 12, 2015 at 20:30
Most corners when they are framed are usually or should be square. When the drywall goes on it is still square or at least the same angle that it was framed at. When the corner bead is added, THAT changes the angle a bit since the corner bead, by its nature goes over the drywall and must be a little farther out to allow drywall mud to coat it. I typically check each corner with a framing square first. I usually cut the miter a little more than 45 degree to compensate. I set a thin stick near the cut to pick up piece and change the angle that little bit.– JackDec 13, 2015 at 4:32
The drywall corner bead (the angled metal corner reinforcing strip that covers the whole outside corner) changes your angle at the corner, even if the walls are square (which they likely are not). You need to miter both molding pieces to a bit more than 45°, like a 1/2° on both to start, judging from your photo.
You've checked both axes of the saw, and when cutting have made sure the stock is flat against the fence, right?
If the problem is just this corner, I'd be inclined to assume thete's a bump or curve in one or both of the walls pushing the bottom of the joint outward. Or perhaps the floor slopes down a bit toward that corner so the angle really is tilted this way.
Suggestion: If you can't find an obvious cause, and it isn't happening at every corner, either pull that inward to close it, whittle it to fit, or fill the gap with wood putty and trust that nobody will ever notice aftef it's been painted.
In any house, you can pretty much assume that square and plumb aren't exact. Do the best you can.
Just looking at the photo I'd say your saw miter angle is perfect, but either you're not guiding the stock flat against the fence or the fence is misaligned.
I had this same problem with some cabinetry and it turned out that the front and back of my millwork stock were not parallel.