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I am purchasing 1300sqft of 3/8" thick engineered hardwood for my home. 600sqft will be glued down (first floor is concrete) and 700 will be nailed down (second floor is wood subfloor). I do not want to float the floor.

It seems like the majority of engineered wood flooring out there is "click-lock" and designed for easy floating installation. There are also some that are traditional T&G, but for this option it seems the selection is smaller and often more expensive.

The associates at HD and Floor & Decor tell me you can glue or nail click lock flooring with no problem.

Are there any advantages/disadvantages for click-lock or tongue & groove planks when the installation method is glue or nail down?

Any other suggestions or considerations I should be aware of?

I live in a desert climate (Arizona) if that makes any difference.

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I've installed flooring of the "click and lock"-type on several different jobs and had fair to good comments from all the customers. The kind I worked with was an extremely thin MDF plastic veneered plank. Snapping them together on the long side was fairly simple, but the short top and bottom edges really tested my patience, especially when trying to install the next board to two edges at the same time. This was for a floating floor, but in hind-sight glueing or fastening the boards may have been easier. The complaint that kept repeating itself from customers was the seams kept opening up. Examining the boards that had loosened, I could see no problem or damage with the latching points. What I concluded recently is the attaching profile (mostly on the male edge) isn't deep enough to always form a secure mechanical bond. From than on I always insist that this type of floor be secured with glue or fasteners. Also note that the thin MDF locking edge is fragile and delicate. Expect at least 10-15 % of the boards to have damage out of the box and another 10% to be damaged trying to install them. Check the boxes at the store and look for any evidence of the package being damaged. Put aside any unuseable boards for return. Lowes accepted all boxes of damaged boards for refund.

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the only suggestions or considerations I can offer is that I would suggest you consider using a different product. engineered wood and laminate is all junk, unless you get into quality stuff like torlys or pergo, and even then its still pretty much garbage. the only remotely tolerable products that are engineered wood floors should be at least 12mm thick for long term durability, and at 1/3" = 8mm, you are talking about a really thin product. in my experience, the joints will randomly open up over time. if you insist on gluing (don't nail), just use a notched trowel and adhesive that are rated for the floor. if it has no recommendation, then ask a flooring contractor. once installed, promptly list the house and sell as fast as possible.

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I work for a company that makes laminate flooring, we make different thickness and profiles(profile is the joint)I have 4 rooms with it in and they are all different, each was an upgrade on the other couple of years apart. The latest I put in was the best for connection, the long side just push tight together at angle then firmly push down to click, the short edge though has a plastic comb like membrane inserted during the manufacture of the panel and this locks it in place and is easy to fit and hard to separate(be warned) push the ends slowly together and you'll hear a distinct click.

One thing never nail wood to the floor it needs to float due to heat or humidity changes. Laminate states a 10mm gap all round the room, leave the gap-you may be a little under but no less than 8mm-it will expand with right conditions and if no gap left can buckle. If you decide to glue, not a problem, just use a waterproof glue to help seal the HDF(MDF but higher density)

Stilettos make holes in engineered wood flooring but not Laminate, dog paws destroy all types of wood flooring

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