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I finally found a motor for an old DeWalt radial arm saw but I don't understand the diagrams on the motor plate. I want to run it at 220 volts but without terminals I'm not sure about which wires go to my hot leads.

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  • Well, the "WHITE/LINE" wire on each diagram is one of the inputs (presumably neutral since "white"). Is there a black wire that doesn't appear on the diagram? If so then the black is probably the hot input. – Daniel Griscom Dec 8 '15 at 1:58
  • I have the exact same DeWalt radial arm saw. It's 55 years old and belonged to my Dad. I am looking to rewire for 220v to hopefully get better performance when ripping. Did you get yours running fully? I understand the diagram on the plate, but for the 3 leads coming from the 220 plug, what did you connect each to? Thanks Ed – Shauneq Maxwell Mar 5 '17 at 22:37
  • Could you post a picture where we can understand wich wires are connected to wich wire-nuts? It will help troubleshoot. – DDS Mar 6 '19 at 9:31
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Looking at the first photo, under the label "208-240" the "white line" is the in coming white wire from the power. It shows that it is connected to the white wire from the motor. The "blue insulate" means the blue wire is not being used and should be capped and taped. Although it doesn't designate how the "black" wire from the power is connected I would say that since it is a capacitor run-type motor that the black is wired to the capacitor. If not it would go to the "reset" switch. Look to see how the black wire is connected presently and keep it as is.

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    In a 240 volt circuit, white is not neutral. If it's 120V, or 120/240V then white is probably neutral. In a straight 240V circuit, there's no neutral. – Tester101 Nov 24 '15 at 10:08
  • Interesting, the drawing doesn't show where the "black" or other ungrounded conductor is attached. I don't think he has a "presently" situation I think he has a very old surplus motor he wants to connect. But hopefully there is a terminal in the connection box where it is evident where the black wire connects. – ArchonOSX Nov 24 '15 at 10:29
  • the black wire does hook to the reset switch. i,ve managed to get it to run but the big relay cuts out after about 30 seconds. and when it is running it's not very fastas if its only running on 110v instead of 220. my 220 cord coming in has three wires ,red, black, and white,with my red and black being the hot leads. so i guess im asking if the red wire from my power cord should be hooked to the white lead in the mootor? and thank you for the response so far. – Robert Wilson Nov 25 '15 at 3:33
  • Check the receptacle for correct voltage. Also the capacitor may be faulty and needs to be replaced. – ojait Nov 25 '15 at 4:41
  • Robert-You need to be sure the receptacle is supplying 220 Volts. A Digital Voltage Meter will tell you this. As for the power whip (cord) that supplies the 220 voltage, its wiring is dependent on the wall receptacle and how the female plugs are oriented. If you post photos of the receptacle wiring and your cord plug would help a lot. – ojait Nov 26 '15 at 17:38

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