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im racking my brain trying to get my 220v electric cooktop to work. ALL 4 burners do not operate. i read 220v at all the proper places on the switches etc but when i turn a burner on... the voltage drops to 0. the burner doesnt warm up.

the connections in the junction box (red and black wires in wall FROM panel connecting with wirenut to red and black wires that go to the cooktop) seem tight and clean.

i also used my own 'jumper cables' to connect from the red/black wires in the junction box directly to one of the burner elements (basically by passing all wiring harnesses, switches etc). no current flow. voltage drops from 220 to 0 when i put the burner element in the circuit

i have 2 40amp circuit breakers in the panel box that bring the 220v to this one junction box. i check the voltages at those breakers and measure 110v for each and 220v across the two.

what is happening here? thx

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If you've bypassed all the controls in the stove itself, and the voltage still drops to zero when you apply a load, then there's either a bad connection somewhere in the wire run, or one of your breakers is bad. (And breakers do go bad.) I'd replace the breakers, (fairly quick and cheap) and if still no luck then replace the wiring run from the panel to the stove.

  • I would check the breaker side turn the stove on power there, check the outlet good there where the main like bob said you are loosing a leg with a load so check every connection point for a loose connector , wirenut ect – Ed Beal Nov 23 '15 at 15:00
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turns out that i took my cooktop apart for nothing! the actual problem was a burnt out wire splice at a '2nd' 'hidden' junction box which resulted in a resistive short!!!

just because you read 220v at the junction box that connects to the stove doesnt mean you are good to go. if i had put a load on those wires (maybe a 60 w light bulb on L1 to Neutral and also on L2 to Neutral) i would have seen that there was no current flow.

turns out my house had a kitchen remodel long ago and the original aluminum wires that carry L1 and L2 end in a junction box that is inside a kitchen cabinet. in that box they are spliced to copper wires that then go to the junction box that connects to the stove wires. when i finally found that middle box... i was able to see that L1 connector must have gotten hot and burned up (luckily didnt start a fire!!!. turns out there was a weak connection thru all that crude that resulted in 10ohms of resistance when i measured continuity on the 2 wire ends . I fixed the splice there with the appropriate connector for copper to aluminum

moral of the story: dont just assume when you read a voltage that the line is working... put a load on it to make sure it is not a resistive short.

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