I turned off the water supply valve to my toilet (a push-pull type with the supply line crimped on) and disconnected the water supply line from the toilet (the other side does not come off apparently as it is crimped on to the valve).

After reattaching the supply line to the toilet and turning the water valve on again I am getting leaking on the line where it meets the toilet that I was not getting before all of this.

The supply line is crimped at the valve, and appears to be white rubber (at least on the outside) with a plastic nut to connect to the toilet.

If I move the supply line a bit when the water is on, the leak moves around and in some cases can spray out a lot, while other times it will just be a small spray or leak.

So far I have just been hand tightening the plastic nut and tightening it a bit at the end with a spanner, but it doesn't appear to be a problem with how tight it is (I could be wrong on that).

What can I do to prevent the leaks when I turn the water back on, aside from replacing the whole valve and supply line (which is not an option)?

Here is the actual supply line in use: Toilet-end of the supply line

Here is the same type of connector on a DIFFERENT supply line (and the line in use does not have a washer right now but this one does) The connector to the toilet

Final update: Just to close this out, the issue was the washer. When the supply line was unscrewed from the toilet the old washer fell out or disappeared in some way, this caused water to jet out between the nut and the hose whenever the water was turned back on. I contacted the original manufacturer of the valve/line and they sent me new washers which have completely solved the issue with water leaking.

  • Some photos would be helpful
    – Tester101
    Commented Nov 13, 2015 at 3:09
  • I went ahead and added two photos. One of the actual supply line installed, and another showing a spare hose I had that uses the same type of connector, but the supply line installed on the toilet does not have any washer but looks like it should. Commented Nov 13, 2015 at 4:39
  • Replacing the valve could be a fairly quick and easy project if the current one is attached with a compression fitting and you have a couple wrenches. The end result would be much better since it sounds like this hose is trouble.
    – BMitch
    Commented Nov 13, 2015 at 5:17
  • Alright photos trump words every time. Yes your missing the washer. If they have been in use for too long they will become frail and brittle and crumble.
    – ojait
    Commented Nov 14, 2015 at 1:38
  • 1
    Thank you for this info! I was going crazy watching water spray all over my bathroom trying to replace a riser. I bought new risers thinking the problem was with them. After reading your answer I found the washer had gone up into the old riser. After pulling it out of there and putting it back on the water line connector, it worked perfectly!
    – Jeff
    Commented Dec 14, 2018 at 5:32

3 Answers 3


You need a new washer inside the loose connection. The tank/hose connector is 7/8 inch (in the States). An "O"-ring of proper size will do. I've substituted the washer from a garden hose in a desperate situation. But it would be wise to purchase a flat washer specifically for the 7/8 inch tank connector.

  • This is Canada so it should be the same. Should the washer be inside the plastic bit of the line? I looked inside when it was unscrewed and it's just a plastic nut and the part of the line that the water comes through, I didn't see anything else in there. Commented Nov 13, 2015 at 1:15
  • Usually with metal supply tubes there is a nut put over it and than a ferrule. With flexible hoses the washer is inside the plastic nut.
    – ojait
    Commented Nov 13, 2015 at 1:23
  • Alright let me just make sure of everything before I go and mess it up. I need to get a 7/8" o-ring, unscrew the flexible hose supply line from the toilet, put the o-ring inside the nut, on the connection where the water is going to go to the toilet (should it just go on top of this? or do I have to slip it so that the o-ring is where the hose connector meets the bottom of the plastic nut?), rescrew it by hand, and hope and pray that when I turn the water back on it doesn't make a mess everywhere. Commented Nov 13, 2015 at 1:29
  • I did have a spare flexible metal hose lying around, I think I see what you mean since that hose has a black rubber washer on both ends. The plastic hose on my toilet right now doesn't seem to have any, so it's either on the screw right now and I didn't notice it (but not in the right place) or just disappeared. Commented Nov 13, 2015 at 1:39
  • Maybe one more dumb question just to make sure I really understand all of this. Right now from what I can tell thanks to you the water is leaking out because there's a gap by design between where the nut threads on and the supply line to the toilet, where there is usually a washer to fill the gap but mine is gone. I need to get a washer big enough to fit around the threading nicely (7/8") and seal up that gap so that no water can leak out there and flood my apartment. Commented Nov 13, 2015 at 2:09

I'm hoping that somebody sees this - I just ran into the same problem as the OP and spent some time researching & investigating the issue.

The problem is that the gasket that comes on the valve is actually still inside of the toilet tank inlet - it's just lodged/displaced & difficult to see. If you shove your fingernail in there you'll feel the rubber gasket.

Simply remove it (without using any harsh tools that may nick/damage the rubber), put it back on the valve, screw it back in and test again. I just did this and the spraying/leaking problem is gone.

Hoping to get a few more years out of these pieces of junk before I eventually replace them all.

  • Hello, and welcome to Home Improvement. Thanks for the great answer; keep 'em coming! Commented Mar 7, 2019 at 11:19

Those lines use different style washers depending on manufacturer and design (flat, cone, o-ring, etc.)

I have never seen that style of supply line as an integral part of the supply stop-valve. Look closely at the valve to ensure this is the case, as it would be much better if you replaced the line with a braided stainless supply line that has the proper washer.

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