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enter image description hereMy ceiling drips water sometimes when it rains (especially when it rains hard). It seems inconsistent though, so I think that it may have something to do with the angle at which the rain comes in. The leak is at the apex of my ceiling, so I know the leak must be just about directly above that spot on my ceiling. My roof is about 10 years into its life span, but it seems to be in good shape. I got on-top of my roof, but couldn't see anything wrong with the shingles near the spot that leaks. How should I proceed? Should I buy some more shingles and put them on top of the others at that same spot on my roof? Should I take up a bucket of water and see if I can reproduce the leak?

  • Not sure what you mean by "apex of my ceiling". Is it a cathedral ceiling? You'd also be surprised at how far water will travel once it hits framing. – Comintern Nov 11 '15 at 3:03
  • I have a one story home, and the ceiling is slanted just like the roof. The leak is at the highest point of my ceiling, so there isn't at a higher point on the roof where the water could be coming from. – Stephen Hartzell Nov 11 '15 at 3:11
  • So, you have a flat, sloped roof, with no ridge? Perhaps the problem is with the high edge of the roof. Note, though, that unless you can directly see the underside of the roof somehow (sounds like you don't have an attic) it's a bear to find out where water's coming from. – Daniel Griscom Nov 11 '15 at 3:18
  • There is a ridge along the center of the roof. It's gently sloped in the front and the back. I'm adding pictures now. Hopefully that will make it more clear. – Stephen Hartzell Nov 11 '15 at 3:24
  • Looks like you have a leaky ridge vent. – user46396 Dec 8 '15 at 1:51
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Since the general vicinity of the leak is at the peak of the roof it definitely decreases the amount of time pinpointing the exact location. Depending on your roof pitch it is quite possible for rain to be blown under the roof shingles. The easiest why to repair the opening is with roof cement. Any brand that is petroleum based will work. And because you know the general location start by checking each shingle to see if it can be lifted from the one below it. Shingles have a adhesive strip that bonds it to the one below. If you locate one gently lift it enough to smear a tablespoonful of roof cement and press back into place. Also be on the look-out for roofing nails that have worked their way through the shingles. Although rare nail 'pops' do occur on roofs. It maybe easier to remove the nail than risk damaging the shingles by hammering it back. Apply cement if you do. Check the cap shingles on the ridge line. U.V rays will desiccate the asphalt to the point it becomes crumbly. Look for any splits on the shingles and 'thread-bare' ones that have lost their asphalt particles from erosion. Trowel cement just enough to do the job (too much may soften or melt the shingles in heat prone climates.

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    Thank you so much for your detailed answer. I'm going to get some roof cement and apply it as you directed tomorrow. When I was on the roof, I did notice that some shingles could be somewhat lifted up. You gave me some great pointers. Thanks! I'll wait until after tomorrow to accept your answer to give others time. – Stephen Hartzell Nov 11 '15 at 3:30
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    no problem. glad to help. – ojait Nov 11 '15 at 3:49

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