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I have a mirror that we got from Crate and Barrel, but the backside of the mirror is not flush so it sticks out from the wall (and looks weird).

Here is a picture of the backside. You can see the mounting holes in the corners and that the mirror sticks out 3/4" from the back.

Any ideas???

enter image description here

  • How heavy, and what is the back made of? – JPhi1618 Oct 29 '15 at 17:42
  • It weighs about 35lbs, the back is all metal – Chuck Oct 29 '15 at 18:20
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    My initial reaction was using D-rings and picture wire, if the frame is metal sheet over a wood frame, that could still work. I can flesh out an answer if it looks like it may work. – JPhi1618 Oct 29 '15 at 18:27
  • The problem that I see with using picture wire is that it will be exposed when mounted. – Chuck Oct 29 '15 at 19:11
  • You mean exposed on the sides? You would have to drill new holes if you're talking about using wire with their holes at the top... – JPhi1618 Oct 29 '15 at 19:19
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don't do any of the above. make a French cleat rail and mount it that way. if you don't know what that is, google. if you don't have the capacity or know how to do it, just ask your local carpenter to do it. its cheap, fast and super secure

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Since the mounting holes are a ways out from the wall, I'd probably use a screw-in drywall anchor and a screw sticking out far enough that it fits into the mounting holes while the back is held flat to the wall.

enter image description here

This type of drywall anchor will let you keep the screw out as far as needed, plus they're quite strong. Of course, if you can go directly into the studs with one or both sides, that is even better.

A few notes:

  • This will only work if there's a lip in the mounting hole for the screw head to catch on (eg: so it can't just slip straight off the screw and fall down).

  • Keeping the two screws precisely aligned is very important, or the mirror will be crooked. Use a long level or a laser level and be sure to check multiple times as you go.

    The downside of these types of anchors is you can't really adjust them: once they're in, you can't adjust them. If one of the screws is going into a stud, do that screw second, as you may be able to adjust that if you're off.

  • If this is your first time using these anchors, I'd suggest practicing on some spare drywall first just so you know how they go in and can keep them perfectly aligned with where you want them to be.

  • This could work. I'd likely feel safer with small lag screws in studs. Though 35lbs is border line. – DA01 Oct 30 '15 at 5:25
  • The zinc anchors (pictured) are usually rated 50 lbs each, so that should be more than enough (and the shear strength of #8 screws is over 300 lbs). That said, to the OP, if you don't feel it's going to hold the weight or be safe enough, use a bigger screw. I'm just some guy on the internet; you're the one that has to walk past this thing every day. – gregmac Oct 30 '15 at 5:48
  • This is dangerous to the point that I think this answer should be removed. They are rated at 50lbs each (when screwed in exactly the right way, in new drywall) when you have a weight connected directly to them at the wall, pulling straight down. Things change quite a bit when the weight is 3/4" away from the wall, applying significant torque to the fastener. Also, the 1/16" lip of the screw is in no way safe for holding a mirror of all things several feet over the ground. – JPhi1618 Oct 30 '15 at 14:47

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