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I've had a break-in so looking to improve my security. I have what I believe is called a multi point lock - see pic. Basically when you lock the door there are pins at the top and bottom of the door that go into the frame, in addition to the dead bolt.

I have ordered a replacement Euro cylinder (this is in Ireland) that resists "bump" and "snap" (Avocet ABS MK3 Euro Cylinder) but was wondering if brute force was applied to the handle (say using a pipe as lever), could the lock be forced open this way?

Also, I want to add some internal bolts to the door, top and bottom. Given that the multi lock runs the entire length of the door, how near to the edge could I put wood screws in without hitting the locking mechanism? I don't want to take it out to look just in case I have problems getting it back in!

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  • Does the nicest lock do any good when your door has a window which can be broken to flip the deadbolt?
    – InbetweenWeekends
    Oct 29, 2015 at 18:15
  • @InbetweenWeekends: note that this is keyed on both sides. And if they're going to break a window -- uncommon because burglars don't like making that much noise which might attract attention -- that's a broader question and you want to start looking at lexan glazing and/or alarm systems.
    – keshlam
    Oct 29, 2015 at 22:51
  • True, but one does have to be religious about removing their keys from the inside, or it's as good as not being keyed.
    – InbetweenWeekends
    Oct 30, 2015 at 12:35
  • I just failed my savinv throw against the obvious misinterpretation of the question title, and now have the song Why Don't We Do It In The Road stuck in my head. Figured I'd share the pain...
    – keshlam
    Oct 30, 2015 at 13:07
  • keshlam - ha ha! I changed the title for you!
    – KevInSol
    Oct 30, 2015 at 15:22

2 Answers 2

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The "no screw" locations will vary from lock to lock. The typical "multi-point lock" has 3 latches that interface with the side of the door frame like this:

enter image description here

As you can see, screwing anywhere at the top or bottom of the door should be fine.

If you do have a type of lock with bolts that go into the header and door sill, I would expect the "boxes" to be smaller, but still present in the area of the bolts. Measure from the door frame to the far side of the bolt, and add 20-30mm to that for your no-screw zone. That should put you beyond any hardware and into good solid wood.

Of course, if you can find a manufacturer for your lock set, Google it up and see if you can get a picture or installation instructions so you know exactly what to avoid.

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  • JPhi1618, thanks. I added a second image, I just have two pins, might it still look a bit like your image? Good idea I'll see if there is a name stamped on it.
    – KevInSol
    Oct 29, 2015 at 17:48
  • Good deal. In light of the new picture, I think my included image should be very close to what you have. Beware of the metal boxes 50-60mm above and below the latches exposed on the side of the door, as well as the same distance into the door. You might not have room for an internal bolt, but looks wide open to screw on some surface bolts.
    – JPhi1618
    Oct 29, 2015 at 17:56
  • JPhi1618 - I found a marking KFV and it looks like this one ldwf.co.uk/store/kfv-multipoint-2-pins-lift-lever . I've added two more pictures, one of the door showing location of pins and where I intend to put the bolts (all places shown with masking tape) and also a pic showing the bolt itself. It looks like it should be safe to screw it in?
    – KevInSol
    Oct 30, 2015 at 11:00
  • Looks good to me. Great detective work. Pre-drill the holes for the screws, and drill slowly so if you hit metal or something hard, you'll know.
    – JPhi1618
    Oct 30, 2015 at 12:08
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Most higher-priced locksets -- which this certainly is; very pretty -- have a clutch in the handle mechanism to deal with attempts to force the lever.

Other than that detail, second @jphi1618's answer.

Though frankly I don't think you need more mechanical security on this door and your money/effort would be better spent elsewhere.

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  • Thanks! I have already bought the bolts, just 10 euro (8 USD) for the pair so may as well fit them. I agree I need to look at windows too (have done some work there) so that may be another post!
    – KevInSol
    Oct 30, 2015 at 10:57
  • If you don't feel the surface (rim) locks are ugly... If you're going to Ok that, I strongly recommend vertical deadbolts, to give you a different axis of protection than the existing bolts (which really are more than adequate against most attacks). I really wouldn't unless there is specific evidence that this is your greatest point of vulnerability, which I consider very unlikely.
    – keshlam
    Oct 30, 2015 at 12:31
  • I'd rather not have them, but I thought my windows were secure as they have a double latch and my "visitor" seemed to get in with very little effort. I see what you say about another axis, but that would require going into the floor.
    – KevInSol
    Oct 30, 2015 at 15:18

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