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Installing a TV wall mount. The issue is that the wall is 1/2" dry over 1x2 wood spaced 24 inch on center and then concrete block. What is the best fastener to to use considering the first 1 1/4" would not hold a TV mount for a 70 lb TV. Would like to secure into the concrete block. Most of the sleeve anchors I have seen online looked like they would rely more on the wood than concrete since they are only 2.25 inches long..

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

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    What brought you to the conclusion that the furring would not hold the TV?
    – Edwin
    Oct 16, 2015 at 18:42

4 Answers 4

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I would drill a slightly oversized hole through the drywall and wood, then drill full depth in the concrete for the sleeve anchors. Set the anchors flush with the surface of the concrete.

I would then use over-length bolts into the anchors, at least 3". For extra stability, I might put a metal spacer in the oversized hole in the wood and drywall, and have the bolt pass through it.

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I use E-Z Ancor Twist-N-Lock Drywall anchors to mount pretty much anything to drywall. The hard part is when you are dealing with drywall over concrete block. The concrete block will always prevent the anchor from going in all the way. So you have two choices pre drill the hole with a Masonry drill bit that will allow the anchor to fully seat into the drywall. Or you can use one self drilling anchor to start the hole until you just get to the concrete block then back the anchor out use side cutters to trim the anchor to remove the self drilling part then seat the cut anchor and install a shorter screw. I have done this method to mount a 65 inch Samsung and a floating shelf system that holds all my Audio Video equipment including two AV receivers a cable box and center speaker just my Yamaha Receiver alone weighs 70 pounds all of my equipment weighs a lot when combined but the weight spilt through many anchors even modified anchors holds this equipment and probably much much more with no problem. If you get lucky and hit a wood strip just predrill with a tiny drill bit measure how long of a screw you need and just use a deck screw not a weak drywall screw.

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    This exactly how I have dealt with similar issues in the past. Nice first answer. You could improve it by adding paragraphs and put it into excellent territory by adding a visual element to show what you mean by removing the self-drilling tip (to help people with lesser experience understand what you mean)
    – Ack
    Oct 2, 2020 at 15:57
  • Formatting would help tremendously! Please feel free to edit and add some in.
    – FreeMan
    Oct 2, 2020 at 18:06
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This sounds like a perfect use of Tapcon anchors. They are hardened steel screws that actually thread into concrete once an appropriate pilot hole is drilled:

enter image description here

I'm not sure if such a specific product recommendation is bad form on this site, but I'm not sure of a more "generic" approach.

Since these are threaded, they will use the 1x2s and the concrete block for strength. Going through the drywall, then an air gap, then the block might be a bad idea unless most of the other screws are going through the 1x2s. If you can't screw the mount to the 1x2s because of their location and/or spacing, the canonical solution is to screw a between the 1x2s then screw the mount to the boards.

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  • These are so cool.. Never seen these anywhere locally.
    – Piotr Kula
    Jan 16, 2016 at 18:55
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Use a "wedge type" expansion anchor, you can buy them in lengths that will work fine for your application, assuming the block is filled, not hollow. Try a builder's supply store instead of a "big box" store. Hollow block would require a different type of anchor like the second picture.

Per the manufacturer of one type: "Versatile fully threaded design is standard on sizes up to 3/4" diameter and 10" length."

enter image description here

enter image description here

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  • Actually this manufacturer specifically warns against using wedge anchors in brick or CMU blocks (cinder blocks). Bricks and concrete block just doesn't have the strength and consistency of poured concrete and can't safely retain the small wedge.
    – JPhi1618
    Oct 16, 2015 at 18:58
  • If you read the information in your link you will see that the danger is with anchoring to the block material itself or of penetrating into the hollow portion. Wedge anchors are perfectly suitable for CMU block which is filled with concrete, hence my answer specifically pointing that out; as long as the wedge portion is located in the concrete fill and not the wall of the CMU. I have used them many times in this manner. I should have clarified that the anchor length (and hole) must extend deep enough to ensure the anchor wedge area is in the concrete fill. Oct 16, 2015 at 19:30
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    Ok, my confusion was with your use of "filled". I thought you meant filled as in a solid brick, not filled with concrete.
    – JPhi1618
    Oct 16, 2015 at 19:38
  • In my area CMU is often filled with concrete (but not always, and sometimes only partially filled or fill is staggered, so you never really know until you drill... but nothing is ever easy i guess!) Oct 16, 2015 at 19:42

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