Situation: I have an existing deck with a roof overhang. I'm in the process of planning a rebuild and need to detail how the columns will A: attach to the existing roof and B: to the deck. I can find a ton of information about how to build a deck, but very little about columns.

Details: The columns that are/were (one just fell off) currently in place do not appear to be structural. Referring to the diagram I included, an example column can be seen on the right hand side. The narrower top portion is partially solid, and the bottom part is completely hollow. The existing columns are toenailed into the header, and the bottom parts are nailed into the deck frame. Presently the deck has no footers to speak of, but I plan to add some, and place the columns on the deck above the corner posts.

Column Diagram


Use a 8" x 4" x 1/2" Steel Angled Deck Bracket: (the same thing that should be supporting 'B')

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cityofchicago.org deck code, page listed as 25:

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  • Thanks @Mazura. This is exactly what I was looking for. I had come to a similar solve last night, but using strong-tie joist hangers (U26-2). I was worried that they wouldn't be sufficient to transfer load though. – Sullivan Oct 12 '15 at 12:53

If you're rebuilding, can you plan it so the posts go all the way from the footer to the existing roof? It's probably easier and maybe cheaper all around that way, and far stronger.

The attachment to the roof above would probably be best handled by a piece of specialty hardware, the exact type would depend on the details of the roof corner, something from Simpson Strong Tie or etc.

  • I'm actually trying to plan it that way as well. The difficulty I'm having is figuring out how the frame boards will anchor to the post. All examples I've seen have either been a post with a beam resting on top, or a post running from footer to roof with no other attachments. Lagging the frame straight into the post seems to be frowned upon since the load is directed to the bolts. – Sullivan Oct 11 '15 at 13:48

In areas with little or no seismic activity, or no high wind lift, it can be toenailed in at the top and bottom with 4 12D galvanized nails on each end. 8 toenails, 2 on each face is cool too, but I feel it is overkill.

In other areas, you will need to use post clips of one sort or another similar to that you already have illustrated elsewhere in your sketch. There are a number of types that will work.

If at all possible, fasten the post at the bottom to the framing, not the decking, and cut the decking around the post.

  • Attaching to the frame makes sense, and I should be able to do that without much issue. The wind lift question is good. I'm in Central Ohio and we don't get a lot of high winds but I'm not sure what, if anything, the code requires. – Sullivan Oct 10 '15 at 16:11
  • @Sullivan: Don't you get windstorms there, especially in summer? It isn't all the difficult nor expensive to build for 100 mph gusts. – wallyk Oct 12 '15 at 5:29

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