After recently moving into a home (built in the mid 90's and apparently went through a remodel at some point), the guest bathroom tub started leaking. I noticed the leak in the room on the opposite side of the wall of the bathtub drain. I cut away the drywall to figure out where the leak was coming from and determined it is coming from two places. Where the drain meets the gasket due to an incorrect / not aligned drain line with the bottom of the tub, but the main leak which is causing slight flooding is from where the T meets the concrete. The water is coming from the bottom of the T, and because it is right up against the concrete I really don't have any pipe to cut away and replace. I'm thinking I need to remove bathtub, break away some concrete, and complete redo the plumbing. Any advice? Picture is attached.
Unfortunately I must agree that the entire assembly should be replaced. You will need a completely new "waste and overflow kit". I have encountered similar situations and was able to repair it without removing the tub. It won't be easy, but if you enlarge the hole in the drywall enough to give you more room, you can probably fix it without removing the tub or additional concrete.
Both leaking areas will cause significant problems if not repaired correctly, and I have to say I have never seen a tub shoe that was sliced and offset in that manner. Good luck.
I'd be inclined to disassemble everything above the concrete and find out whether that lower joint is even glued properly. It's not outside the realm of possibility that it was simply missed. Even if it was glued, you may be able to clean/buff the exposed pipe enough to get a good cement bond to a new wye fitting.
It's worth a try before you drag out the sledge hammer. I actually did almost exactly that in my family's new home this summer, though it was a kitchen sink drain at the wall.
It may seem unconventional, but given that it looks like it is leaking at the pipe joint down below the top of the concrete, my first suggestion would be to clean everything up and use several packages of JB Weld putty all around the leaking joint. I personally would then fill the hole in with grout, but that would only be after verifying the leak was stopped and that I had assured myself the repaired joint was built up sufficiently to last in the long term.