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I'm trying to add recessed lighting into my hall. There's currently a pendant light in the middle, which I'll be removing. I then want to add 6 240v (UK) GU10 fittings. There's no insulation in the ceiling cavity as it's downstairs.

I don't really know how to go about physically wiring it all up though. The ceiling is Artexed (as much as I wish it wasn't!) and I really want to try and fit all this without causing a lot of damage to it, as I don't think I'll be able to match any repair cleanly.

I can get all the fittings in place without too much trouble, and I can slip a junction box into the cavity where the pendant is now. I can then fix that to be just flat and smooth, and cover it up with a smoke detector.

My problem is the beams:

Ceiling Beams

I don't know how I'm supposed to get the wiring in between all the recessed fittings without cutting loads of extra access holes into the ceiling. I've got a decent threading kit, but:

  • Do I just drill holes in the beams to thread the wires?
  • If so, how? The holes required for the fittings themselves seem like they will be far too small to use.
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  • Crown molding can be used to hide wires that run down the hall. Instead of drilling joists, run to a hole by the wall, out and back up in another joist space where the next potlights are. – user68386 Sep 9 '19 at 22:40
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It looks as though you could actually pull this off without drilling/cutting extra holes. Yes you just drill the holes. Keep them up from the bottom, or from the top about 2" so no fasteners from the floor or drywall or plaster is hit.

I have used 3/4" bits for easy holes to pull wire through and up to 1 1/2" bits for more difficult fishing, as in threading a needle from 2 ft away. If the threading kit you speak of are fiberglass rods you connect together, these are perfect for this.

If the location of the new holes are relatively accurate how they are oriented to the joists, with care and a few drill extensions you could drill so the end of the bit can be used to pull a wire back through. It will take extra patience to do so but it can be done.

You could also use to fish tapes, or your threading kit, I presume, if you had help to send one out through the blue hole and cross it with another from the other holes, or you could go at the angle in one shot. I would assume you would pull the box at the blue location.

Here is a little sketch using you drawing to show what I would do.

Lights

From the blue hole drill 4 holes in line as best as you can with the other lights. Feed 2 wires to the fist light, one is supply, the other goes to the next light, after that it should be simple using the blue location to redirect the wires you pull to finish the remainder in that area. The rest you will need to thread.

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  • Of course, the hole behind the pendant will be a much better size for access. yeah, screw together carbon rods then various hooks and eyes and things for the end. This looks like it should solve the 4 nicely, then hopefully the other 2 will just not put up too much resistance! Thanks :) – Octopoid Sep 28 '15 at 9:04
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A flexible bit and guide tool, should make drilling the holes through the joists easy.

http://www.homedepot.com/catalog/productImages/300/8c/8c164605-d383-4134-92df-0e15f1acedfa_300.jpg

If you have to get in a real tight spot, a flexible extension might work.

enter image description here
(source: alicdn.com)

Though you might not be able to drill a large enough hole with the extension, and your reach will certainly be limited.

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  • Huh.. I've seen the flexible extension before but that flexible bit and guide is a new one on me. Trouble I'd had with the flexible extension was if you try and drill directly with it, it just flops about all over the place, and if I drill a pilot hole first it ends up going in at whatever angle it was restricted to in the first place! The guide looks like a smart way of getting the flexible bit locked straight again - I'll definitely look at getting one of these, thanks. :) – Octopoid Sep 28 '15 at 8:37

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