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Hi I have a table that was burned from a hot pan and I'm wondering if anyone knows any solutions and roughly how much it would cost to remove the burn marks. I'm attaching photos you'll see the tiny black spots around the knot in the wood. enter image description here

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    I like character marks: do nothing. – Mazura Sep 24 '15 at 2:11
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Basically you need to remove the burned wood. Sanding or planing the tabletop would be the most common method of doing that, followed by refinishing. Cost is both off-topic and highly variable (which is part of why it's off-topic - see the help) - not much if you are doing it yourself, considerably higher and highly variable if you are engaging someone else to do the work.

  • thanks so much for the response. Under $40 you think if I did it myself? – Christina Rule Sep 23 '15 at 20:25
  • Sandpaper (several grits, and a block if you don't have one) and a pint of finish, at a guess; or possibly 2-3 spray cans if you can get a decent spray-can lacquer and that's the look you want. Brush or wipe on in a non-spray system is generally less costly. Oil & wax is the look & feel I usually like best, but not everyone likes it (more wood, less plastic-y...) – Ecnerwal Sep 23 '15 at 21:13
  • @ChristinaRule $40+ gets you a random orbit sander (without which I would not do this; I'm spoiled by them). I'd think it'd come in under $100 for all the stuff you'd need, and then you'd own everything to easily do it elsewhere. If you're willing to spend the elbow grease to save money, ~$40 should do (however, my general rule for estimating is: figure it out and then double it). Shame on you, Ecnerwal, for suggesting painting ;p – Mazura Sep 24 '15 at 2:10
  • @Mazura ??? I suggested no such thing. Spray (clear) finish, wipe or brush (clear) finish, or oil and wax (a sort of of wipe, but not what most folks consider a "finish", though I like it and do consider it a very valid one.) For one table with minor burns I think the RO sander is a bit over the top... – Ecnerwal Sep 24 '15 at 2:46
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    @Mazura - correct, I do not assume that most people will come to the light. If you'd like to try (since you own some), you will need to learn what "scary sharp" is (sandpaper can be handy there, too, all the way up to 2000 grit if you like) and get the blades to that point. A dull hand plane does not so much "work poorly" as "not work at all." A truly sharp plane is a joy to use, quiet, and leaves a superior surface .vs. sanding. I thought as you do growing up, since all the planes in our house were dull. I met a sharp one in college, and it was a revelation.... – Ecnerwal Sep 24 '15 at 11:12

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