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I wanted to run electric into my mudroom for a ceiling light and a exterior light. Unfortunately the walls were all painted wood paneling so while doing that I figured I would switch to drywall because I had to rip half the stuff down anyway. Plus it looked like garbage. Unfortunately after handing the drywall I noticed the door jamb and window case extends a extra 1/4 out from the wall. Novice mistake of course seeing as this was my first time flying solo.

Is there a way in which I can make up this difference when I go to hang moulding or am I going to have to pull down these walls and put up strapping underneath to make up the difference and rehang the drywall?

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Consider adding an additional piece of molding outside of the casing to hide the gap.

The casing (door and window frame moldings) should be mounted parallel to the drywall (not canted in). They can be shimmed on the outside edge using stock cedar shims every 12" to 15". Nail through the shims and then trim the shims flush to the outside edge of the casing.

Then prepare another piece of molding, rectangular in cross section, measuring 3/4 x (thickness of casing + 1/2"). You may be able to find a stock piece, or you could rip it from 1 x material (which is actually only 3/4" thick). The 3/4 edge will face the room and the other dimension will face the shimmed out edge of the casing. The extra half inch is to cover the gap at the wall and to sit forward from the edge of the casing (edges that do not line up flush are said to have a relief, and usually look better). Usually it also looks better to sand the two sharp edges off the face of the new molding, but only on the room side, not the wall side.

This is an example of this kind of casing + extra molding.

backband

While this casing is flat, the same technique works with more elaborate casings.

  • Awesome, this will work perfectly! – TheHamstring Sep 11 '15 at 12:33
  • Great application and explanation. Also, looks very classy and clean. – BrownRedHawk Sep 11 '15 at 13:07
  • @BrownRedHawk This is a new install to match existing moldings in an 1869 farmhouse that was made "modern" in 1905. These type moldings were part of that turn of the century reno. – bib Sep 11 '15 at 13:37
  • They're awesome. I've been "shopping" for trim ideas in a remodel I'm about to complete. This definitely will be the way to go. – BrownRedHawk Sep 11 '15 at 13:58
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If the hinge barrels are in the room that had the panelling, it's a tough job. My pick would be to skin the drywall with 1/4" drywall.

If the door opens the other way, you can just hit the door jamb with a power plane and make that 1/4" go away. Not sure of the structure of your windows, though. They might not appreciate the planing.

If you didn't like either of those ideas, you could find casing that has a 1/4" x 1/2" rebate where it would sit on the jamb.

0

Removing the new drywall because the window frame edge is a 1/4 inch above the drywall should be the very last solution you should consider. It isn't such an enormous problem, but it might take extra time. First consider how many casings need to be adjusted and if it's plausible to invest the time needed to amend the problem? Time not an issue? Than with a power planer or belt sander remove the door and window edges that are above the drywall surface. If the surrounding drywall gets marred or damaged shouldn't be critical since you will cover the area with new molding.

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