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The metal siding on my garage (built in 2012) is coming off, leaving exposed wood.

The only thing that was holding the metal down was the caulk which came off pretty easily within a few years.

I don't think re-caulking as-is would be enough as it won't hold so I was thinking of buying screws like these to hold the siding in place and then re-caulking. Thoughts?

Thanks for the help!

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EDIT Oct 4th: I starting cleaning it up to re-caulk and found this in the top right corner:

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Here is the likely cause (this view is from above the top right corner):

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So I have two additional questions:

1) What should I do about the rotting wood/fungus?

2) What should I do to fix source of problem? It looks like I can caulk the cracks easily.

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    These pieces should have been held on with ring shank aluminum trim nails.The caulk shouldn't be the only thing holding it on. – Jason Hutchinson Aug 21 '15 at 20:26
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yes. screw it back into place. Use truss-head type screws rated for exterior use. Truss screws have a round very flat head. Drill pilot holes to fasten to frame beneath. Start your repair in the center of the loosened panel; working outwards in each direction. This will decrease the chance of the panel becoming distorted. Apply 100% silicone along underside of panel to improve adhesion and waterproofing. I'd use as few screws as possible so as to not twist or wrinkle the metal siding. If you use urethane caulking it will not only stop water penetration it will adhere to the metal and framing much like a construction adhesive would. 2 for 1 as it were.

  • One thing to add - I've seen enough thermal expansion issues in metal trim that I wouldn't screw or nail directly through the metal. I always pre-drill the metal slightly larger than the shank of the fastener to allow some movement around the head. – Comintern Aug 22 '15 at 14:56
  • I concur. A slightly larger pilot hole in the metal would allow the siding to move without buckling. Good point. – ojait Aug 23 '15 at 2:07
  • Hi guys, thanks for the recommendation. I started working on it today and noticed rotting wood/fungus in one corner. Pics and description added above, if you can take a look and recommend. – Che Oct 4 '15 at 17:33
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The newest photo's show water logged framing with mold growth. If it is localized to the area in the photo and the wood fibers are intact it should be sufficient to scrape of the mold and let it dry. And the second photo showing the cut flashing above the wet framing member should be caulked with a silicone caulking when it is dry.

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