I'm working on a bathroom remodel (necessitated by a failing sub-floor, but that is neither here nor there), and PEX has been recommended either to completely replace the affected plumbing or at least for any pipes that have to be moved.

That means, for instance, providing the toilet supply in PEX.

I've got the pipe, I've got the tools, I've got the connectors, and I've got a very uncomfortable feeling from the idea of that hose coming through the wall to the cut-off valve being able to flop around like a dead fish: I'm used to PVC or galvanized steel piping which provides a reasonably solid base for that value.

Am I overreacting or is there some trick I should know for mounting this in a solid way?


2 Answers 2


You need a pex stub-out bracket that attaches to the studs:


And a 90 pex support that attaches to the bracket:

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It would be nice to have a sleeve and a escutcheon:


Your PEX will still be a little wobbly, but connecting it directly to the toilet valve is considered by many to a better solution than using a copper stub-out, because there is no fitting behind the wall. Anyway, PEX is pretty tough.


Depends on the valve. There are valves with some means to mount them, and valves with no easy means. You can provide some sort of wall-mount bracket that you clamp the valve and/or pipe leading to it to. There are folks that make copper pipe stubs which attach to the wall and keep the PEX behind the wall, with copper sticking out into the room. There are PEX drop-ear elbows which can be used in a similar manner to transition to firmly attached threaded pipe for the last bit.

On the other hand, the toilet is generally a flex connection anyway, so if you can make the connection and operate the valve with it "floating" it may not really be a problem. But if it upsets you, use a drop-ear and threaded pipe (of course, if you already bought the PEX valve, that's inconvenient.)

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