2

I have a newly created floor (for a loft conversion) that is chipboard over wooden joists with noggins. At present there is no ceiling below it.

Some of the joists have been doubled up due to the span and don’t fit that well together as the timber was not perfectly true. I can also see some gaps between noggins and the joists, once again due to the joists timber not always being true.

There are lots of creaks as the floor is walk on.

However the chipboard is screwed down to all the joists and glued in the tongue and grooves.

Is there something I can easily fill the gaps between the joists and noggins with from below (e.g. some sort of thick flexible glue) that will solve the problem long term?

Will putting screws (as well as the current nail gun nails) in all the noggins helps?

How do I stop the problem coming back after the ceiling has been put up?

  • Could you elaborate/explain what a "noggin" is? I've only ever heard someone's head referred to as a "Noggin". – BrownRedHawk Aug 11 '15 at 12:06
  • @BrownRedHawk - In the U.S., we'd call noggins "blocking". In this context it would catch the seams perpendicular to the joists. – Comintern Aug 11 '15 at 12:48
  • @Comintern Thank you! I love learning the different vocabulary for terms. I'm amazed how much difference there is regionally, nationally and internationally! – BrownRedHawk Aug 11 '15 at 13:15
  • noggins in the UK are fixed between long joists to stop the joists twisting with temperature and stop movement when walked on. As the chipboard is T&G, it does not seen noggins for the seams between panels of board. – Walker Aug 11 '15 at 16:16
1

I'm not sure what's available in your area, but heavy duty construction adhesive is ideal for this. I've resolved many annoying squeaks and pops by running beads along all accessible joints, then fingering it out to spread it and press it into the gaps. (Use disposable gloves or a tool to prevent a lasting bond to skin.) Over a few days it hardens nicely and bonds extremely well.

In addition, add construction screws where you can to tighten joints and prevent slippage of existing fasteners.

0

In my experience, the best solution to resolving squeaky and/or isolated "bouncy-ness", is to use adhesive to first attach a small block (typically a 2x4 drop or similar) to the bottom of the floor, then screw this block to the nearest joist.

If you were to screw to the joist first, then to the floor, the fastener might pull or push the flooring to meet your block. That could cause dimples or your flooring to appear less flat.

I believe I saw this first on an episode of this old house, but I could be mistaken.

Then general idea seems to be you want to isolate the spots that are flexing and rubbing. The rubbing tends to be the cause of the noise. Anywhere the floor joist or noggin/blocking might deflect or bow away from the decking slightly, it gives the flooring clearance to flex and squeak.

Your Answer

By clicking “Post Your Answer”, you agree to our terms of service, privacy policy and cookie policy

Not the answer you're looking for? Browse other questions tagged or ask your own question.