220 hot tub / spa breaker question

Question

Ok...... I had an older spa pump that went out. I also replaced the spa pack. The old spa pack had a GFCI breaker in it and the new one does not. So now I have to add gfci protection to the spa via a gfci breaker. The older main panel (square D) does not make gfci breakers for that style of panel (1980's). So I elminated the hot tub from the main and moved it into an under utilized already existing sub panel.

Here is where I am now lost..... the sub has only one bus bar, all wired attached are grounds, there is NO floating neutral bus bar. I know I can NOT run the breaker (which has a built in "coiled" neutral wire to the ground bus bar or I create a parallel circuit which will feed back current and will not trip the gfci.

So....... Question 1: Can I ground the hot tub in the subpanel and run the neutral into the main panel and attach it there ? Will that create a parallel circuit? Will that prevent the gfci breaker from tripping?

Question 2: If that will not work....... OPTION A: is there a way to ground the subpanel, (grounding rod) and mount a new bus bar to ground box and use the other bus bar as a neutral bar. OR OPTION B: how do I create a neutral bus bar in the subpanel...... (if this is the option I need details) I know it needs to float, but where would it connect to in the main panel ? What gauge wire would be needed?

More info..... the main panel does not have a Main disconnect breaker, the sub panel is being fed from a 60 AMP breaker in the main panel that has two wires from the breaker to the subpanel lugs, a ground and a neutral in the main panel. The current subpanel (also Square D) bus is a ground bus running to the main panel bus.

Thank you for any and all information, I am NO electrician so any help is greatly appreciated.

Answer 1

It's difficult to tell from the photo if there's even a grounding conductor run along with the two ungrounded (hot) conductors, so you'll have to verify that before you go shopping for supplies. You'll also have to verify that the ungrounded (hot) conductors are the proper size. You said the panel is fed through a 60 ampere breaker, so you'll need at least 6 AWG copper conductors (solid or stranded, it makes no difference).

Shopping

Here's what you're going to need.

• A grounding bus bar.
• 6 AWG copper THWN wire with white or gray insulation, long enough to reach from the main grounded (neutral) bar to second panel grounded (neutral) bar.
• 6 AWG bare or green copper conductor, long enough to reach from the main grounding bar to the second panel grounding bar (which you'll install).

If the current ungrounded (hot) conductors are undersized, you have a couple choices. You can replace them, with appropriate conductors. Or you can install a smaller feeder breaker in the main panel, and down size the grounded and grounding conductors accordingly.

Installation

Once you have the supplies, here's what you're going to do.

• Remove the brass bonding screw from the existing bus bar in the second panel.
• Install the grounding bus bar (the one you purchased), in the panel.
• Move all the grounding conductors from the old grounding bus, to the new grounding bus bar.
• Pull the required conductors between the panels.
• Connect the grounded (neutral) conductor to the grounded (neutral) bar in the main panel.
• Connect the grounding conductor to the grounding bar in the main panel.
• Connect the grounded (neutral) conductor to the grounded (neutral) bar in the second panel.
• Connect the grounding conductor to the new grounding bar in the second panel.
• Connect the grounded (neutral) pigtail from the GFCI breaker, to the grounded (neutral) bar in the second panel.

Now you should be all set.

NOTE: Depending on where the second panel is installed. You may need to install a grounding electrode, and bond the panel to it. Check with your local building department, to determine if this is required.