Bought this machine used and the seller failed to mention this to me or this is a problem with my wiring.
All cycles complete 100% on this machine (LG model WM2277HW), except for the aforementioned "Sanitary" cycle. That cycle is one of the reasons my wife wanted to purchase this.
Anyway, I've done general troubleshooting and I'm somewhat lost. I've got 123 volts at my outlet, which is a dedicated line straight to the breaker box with a 20 amp breaker (I have swapped around breakers and their location within the box). I replaced the old outlet (I could feel it getting hot) to no avail.
LG service manual says I can check water temp by pressing and holding the Wash/Rinse button. During the sanitary cycle, the display shows the water temp slowly rising, as there is an independent water heater inside this unit (which I believe is only used during the sanitize cycle). At some point that I'm not certain of, the breaker trips. If I hear it I can run over to the breaker box, reset it, turn the unit back on, start the cycle again and it will trip it at the very beginning of the cycle instead of halfway through. If I wait a couple minutes, it will run the cycle again without tripping in the beginning. If I open the door up, the water has definitely been heated and I can see steam.
I've run tests (very high RPM spin speed, water cycling, heater on/off) as indicated in the service manual and nothing trips the breaker. All this leads me to believe I've maybe got some exposed insulation in that line and after the washer has been pulling a lot of amps for a while the heat is causing expansion and then a short develops. Or both of the breakers I tested are faulty.
Does this sound feasible or is this more than likely a control board/ heater element issue in the washer? I know I need to test it on another line, but I don't have another dedicated line anywhere close. I could plug it into the other bathroom circuit, remove all load and test there. Will that work?
My thought process:
- Heater element is working long enough to raise temp considerably, indicating non-faulty.
- Tumbler works on regular cycle, indicates no-fault
- Drain pump works on regular cycle, no-fault
- Circulation pump works (though rather loudly) on regular cycle, no-fault
- This leaves the outlet, wire, or breaker as most likely culprit