We are looking to do a remodel and move the washer and dyer into a walk in closet. I am curious of any concerns or issues regarding having a washer and dryer inside a walk in closet. Mainly, in terms of moisture. Does the washer or dryer product enough moisture in the room that we would need to include a vent? Also, does the drywall in the room need to be the same that is used in bathrooms?

Update: Clarification. By vent, I mean a separate vent other than the dryer vent. Something like a bathroom ceiling vent in addition to the dryer exhaust vent.

  • 1
    Are you planning to vent your dryer exhaust to the outdoors?
    – mjohns
    Jul 21 '15 at 17:07
  • 1
    Yes, the vent of the dryer would go outdoors.
    – Kalel Wade
    Jul 21 '15 at 17:08
  • Are you planning to run/ operate the appliances with the door closed?
    – mikes
    Jul 21 '15 at 20:05
  • Yes, and not during 'sleeping' hours either.
    – Kalel Wade
    Jul 21 '15 at 20:09

All dryers need a vent. Gas and electric dryers need a vent to the outside of the house to allow all the moisture to escape from the dryer.

All-in-one washer/dryer combo units don't need an air vent, but need a water drain to remove the water from the drying stage (which you need anyways to drain the wash cycle).

The walls are irrelevant. So don't worry about those.

The bigger concern would be the floor. If this is a high efficiency front-loading washer, it will be prone to lots of lateral shaking. Most wood framed floors are ill equipped to handle the speed of front loader washers. It's usually recommended that they be placed on concrete slabs.

As such if the closet wasn't designed for a washer/dryer, then you probably need to beef up the floor as much as you can to reduce the shaking.

  • Hm. How thick a slab? I'm planning to bring my laundry up to the ground floor...
    – keshlam
    Jul 21 '15 at 19:27
  • @keshlam slabs are usually 4" thick, but the bigger issue is that slabs are on-grade. You can't just pour 4" of concrete over the subfloor and expect it to work the same way. It may help, but there's other issues here (is the subfloor glued and screwed, are the joist sufficient, is there enough cross-bracing, what's the finished floor surface, etc.)
    – DA01
    Jul 21 '15 at 19:31
  • In other words, if I do this I leave that to the contractor and settle for only opening things up and closing them again.
    – keshlam
    Jul 21 '15 at 20:31
  • 1
    Well, let's step back a minute. What kind of washer are we talking about? Is this a high-efficiency front loader? If so, look at the specs and see if the manufacturer even recommends it be placed on a wood-framed floor. If it does, then you need to have the contractor come in and reinforce the floor to minimize vibration issues.
    – DA01
    Jul 21 '15 at 20:39

You definitely should install an exhaust vent in the room for humidity and buy a quiet one so you will actually use it. But if you don't it will be like every other 6'-0"x5'-6" laundry room with a vent that is not on; point is not the end of the world.

As for the rest, install your required utities and fixtures for the appliances (power, water, sewer, dryer vent, etc). That's it. Done. No special drywall, no concrete floor.

There are usually a multitude of ways to improve on the status quo, but you do not NEED to for you to have your washer and dryer function as designed.

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