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I've GE window AC 0.75 ton it has stopped cooling I cleaned the nylon net properly with old tooth brush,it was totally blocked Then I combed the metallic horizontal fin like structures which were behind the nylon net covering the twisted copper tube with same brush they were partially blocked Further I combed and cleaned the same fin like structure which was out side After some time I switched the AC On I worked well First it started blowing normal air Then it clicked the compressor also but within 25/30 seconds compressor switched Off and again and AC started blowing only normal air I then switched Off my AC and allowed to cool the machine after 1 hour I repeted the same and the compressor switched Off again Then I noticed that water has stopped dripping from outside also the water tray had very little water in it I called the local machanic He examined my AC and told that Gas is leaking from the thin tube comming out of compressor,it may have caused due to rubbing if that metal tube on body of compressor due to vibration Further he pushed back the tube little bit to avoid contact with compressor body He told me that he will try to weild that thin tube... but it may block the tube he will try it..if it ever get blocked we have to replace (I felt his story professionally good but smelt some thing fishy in it..) Many a time while browsing on NET I came across this sight.. So I am making it try today to ask my problem... I hope I'll be satisfied Thank you...

  • Most window units are not serviceable, meaning that they're meant to be thrown away when they stop working. If you have the proper meters and gauges, you may be able to troubleshoot the problem. With that said... Because the tubing in these units is so small, repairing the tubing can be quite challenging. You might be better off buying a new unit, as attempting to repair the unit might end up costing you more in the long run. – Tester101 Jul 1 '15 at 22:49
  • Thanks Tester101..You mean to say that replacing that tube is more advisable then repair..but how can I test wether there is a leackage in tube..? any way to find out leakage..? – Sagar Kavathkar Jul 2 '15 at 2:59
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    You could remove the refrigerant that is in the system (requires special tools), and then pressure test the system (requires special tools). Or you can use a special set of gauges (if the unit has hookups for them), to test the pressure in the system while it's working (requires the system to be working). You could also use a multimeter to test the various electrical devices, to determine if one of them if at fault. – Tester101 Jul 2 '15 at 13:23
  • I'm assuming the AC Mechanic was not also trying to sell you a new Air Conditioner. Since he didn't seem confident in repairing it, I would suggest replacing the unit. Tester101 seems to hit the nail on the head in saying that too many special (read 'Expensive') tools are required for a DIY approach, and that may indicate the cost of service is similarly high. – BrownRedHawk Jul 2 '15 at 14:48
  • Thanks BrownRedHawk ya it's true the machanic's intentions were clear..this blog for DIY...technical advice is acceptable but it should be acceptable...I was expecting some common DIY person to check and repair my AC unit...of course I honour technical experts suggessions... – Sagar Kavathkar Jul 3 '15 at 20:19
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See: http://homerepair.about.com/od/heatingcoolingrepair/ss/wind_ac_troubl.htm or Try searching the internet for "repair air conditioner" or "appliance repair," or "window air conditioner repair."

If the compressor starts, but then shuts off, it may be overheating, caused by a blocked tube. A thermal overload device cuts off the electricity to the motor. When it cools down enough, it will close again (like a thermostat) and allow the compressor to run again until it overheats again.

If the tube is leaking, it will blow bubbles (even very slowly) when you apply soapy solution on the tube where you think it is leaking. If the refrigerant gas has completely leaked out, it may not blow any bubbles. If the compressor will not run, it will not pressurize the refrigerant gas to force it out through the leak.

When the compressor does not start at all, you may still hear a humming sound, which means that electricity is running through the coils in the compressor motor, but it won't rotate. This can be caused by a faulty starter capacitor. The purpose of this capacitor is to allow the starter coil to "kick" the coils out of magnetic alignment and allow the running coils to take over. Turn it off right away to prevent overheating.

I replaced a capacitor in one of my air conditioners, and it worked again.

  • Yesterday the machanic came weilded the small thin tube with portable fire torch pulled the coil away from the condenser body which was rubbing due to vibration....he refilled the gas and tested the cooling effect...He diagnosed that that there was leackage in gas resulting lack of cooling and condenser switching Off immediately...At last I regained my cool room of work place by paying little amount...Your valuable knowledge updated my grey cells..Thanks all – Sagar Kavathkar Jul 3 '15 at 20:39
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Get some foaming type, acidic based coil cleaner and clean both coils and especially the inside of the outdoor coil as it gets blocked by the slingblades hurling the condensate upon the condenser coils to evaporate the water and sub cool refrigerant, the condensate pan gets dusty and the water gets mucky then gets hurled into the outside coil but it looks ok from outside walking by it!

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