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I painted wood with Valspar satin finish paint, but I don't like the texture because it is rough. I was wondering if I can paint over it with a second coat of a different brand, colour matched and the same finish?

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Technically yes as long as it is the same base (assuming your existing valspar paint was latex, you would need another latex paint).

The sheen or finish of your paint (flat/satin/semi/gloss) is of no concern and shouldn't provide a problem.

However, doing so likely won't do what you want. Assuming your dissatisfaction in texture is more than simply the difference between flat/gloss paint, it means the surface you painted was likely the source of your roughness. You need to smooth (sand) the surface before painting.

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    I think you're right about Valspar indoor paint (which the poster is probably asking about), but Valspar does produce oil based paints for exterior use and use on metal. Jun 23, 2015 at 22:40
  • Would love to know why my answer got downvoted so I could potentially improve it. It says the same thing as the other answer and was here first
    – kinar
    Jun 28, 2015 at 16:43
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The change in brand doesn't necessarily matter but be aware that Satin in Benjamin Moore is different from Sherwin Williams Satin or a Valspar Satin. All brands have their own sheens and they are all different.

As far as the application of a different sheen, that's fine too and it doesn't matter. What DOES MATTER is how you prep the surface area on which you wish to paint. ALWAYS scuff (lightly sand with 120, 150, 180, 220 .....just pick one of those) the walls or trim you're painting. This "scuffing" gives your paint....any paint...something to grab on too. Slick surfaces won't hold onto the paint.

That said, if you're painting over any Satin or SemiGloss, scuff, sand the surface until it's no longer shiny. Dust it well with an old paintbrush, not a rag. Then paint one light coat and wait an hour. Scuff it again. Scuff between every coat. And always make sure you've painted later and soon enough. And lastly, you CANNOT PAINT WITH WATERBASED OVER OIL BASE UNLESS YOU USE AN OIL-BASED PRIMER TO START WITH.

Prime the oil base paint covered surface, after scuffing, with oil base primer. Wait. Scuff. Dust. Paint with whatever your heart desires. If you don't use an oil base primer over dried oil paint, your water base paint will flake off easily. It will not adhere to an oil-base covered wall. Trust me. If you don't, 100% you've wasted your own money and time. Have fun. Oh, another lastly, when mixing paints, you can mix up or down one sheen, but no more than that. Peace.

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    Would you please edit to clarify, "And always make sure you've painted later and soon enough." What, exactly does "later and soon enough" mean?
    – FreeMan
    Feb 20, 2023 at 13:16
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Coming from the Paint Department at Lowe's and serving at two different stores two different paint departments and working with several Valspar reps I can firstly tell you that Valspar does in fact carry Oil-Based paints. They just may not be available at every Lowe's near you.

You can definitely do this. There is actually no harm in doing this at all. Think of it this way. Just imagine you move into a new house and the rooms are already painted. They chose an eggshell finish. You get in there and prefer semi-gloss finish. You like the color, so you pull a chip and get it color matched. The same scenario is what you're facing here. The only difference is YOU painted the first coat.

This is a very common scenario and I'm not sure what the other answers are referring to in regards to not doing what you want. If you want a different sheen, go ahead and apply that coat of paint over it. Make sure it's even and the desired effect will be just as expected and nothing less.

Same base, different base it doesn't matter. Paint is plastic. It doesn't matter if you had flat paint on originally and wanted to cover it with enamel. The only thing I would recommend is using Valspar's primer paint. I believe it's newer to the Valspar lines and they have several options for you.

Now you mention that you want to use a different brand of paint. This should be fine, in general. Valspar is a very thick paint, and I'm not sure that you can get the same one-coat coverage of say a cheaper paint like Olympic, but the Olympic Primer Paint is good stuff also.

The texture is going to be as rough as the surface you're applying it to. You should've sanded down the wood somewhat smooth, primed the wood, and then used a paint over that. Preparation is 80% of painting.

Hope this helps!

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  • @Kinar - You have mispoke. The base is irrelevant. If you go to paint a room, do you check the previous paint can to make sure you have the same base as the last coat of paint?
    – Hituptony
    Jun 29, 2015 at 13:16
  • @Kinar - I also give direct instructions on how to smooth the surface, as well as provide credentials as to your false claims like "all Valspar paint is latex based"
    – Hituptony
    Jun 29, 2015 at 13:17
  • So you are saying that latex or oil is not the base of a paint? I'm pretty sure oil-based and/or latex - based paint is the correct term. What you refer to as base is correctly identified as the sheen or possibly base coloring but it is not the paint base.
    – kinar
    Jun 29, 2015 at 13:54
  • @hituptony also, please provide a link to a valspar oil based indoor wall paint (the most likely use for the OP). I couldn't find one on their website. The OP also mentions that their dissatisfaction comes from the surface being too rough which most likely isn't the fault of the paint chosen.
    – kinar
    Jun 29, 2015 at 14:00
  • @Kinar no bases with paint refer to how much white paint is in the can, for example a light color (Taupe for example) will need a base 1. But a dark Magenta would need a base 5. There's a lot less white in the can, so the paint mixer can add more color to create the deeper tone. Make sense? :)
    – Hituptony
    Jun 29, 2015 at 14:46
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I don't think the issue is the paint, if the finish is rough typically it's an issue with either how or with what, it was applied. Things that can affect the quality of a finish are:

  1. Rolling out the paint too far, if you don't see your paint smoothing out after you put it on you are likely rolling it either too far or too often, it can self level to it's intended sheen if it is too dry.
  2. Using too long a nap roller (1/2"on a flat wall for example) leaves bigger "blobs" of paint so the paint has to move farther to self level, many pro's can do this successfully as they are aware of the limitation and work around it when applying the paint.
  3. The type of roller material can have a big affect on the finish, a KNIT fabric on a roller is more like a sponge, it will hold more paint but it also lays it down like a sponge, a more textured finish (i.e. it will look like an orange peel) which is why it is only recommended for lower sheen paints. For a satin sheen paint I recommend the use of a WOVEN material roller or micro-fiber if you are looking for a REALLY smooth finish. Normally I also recommend using a roller from the same brand as the paint as they OPTIMIZE the performance of their products to work together. That said, a cheap applicator is a pretty sure path to an unsatisfactory result.

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