I am remaking my road sign using a 3/4 sheet of HDO. (Not MDO) It 5' wide by 3' tall, and double sided. The old one had brackets that bolted through the face but they will not fit with the vinyl sign that's going to be attached. They are also rusted and I can not find more.

Plan B is to pre-drill holes into the top edge and screw in course eye loops. Maybe with some epoxy to really secure them. Would this be able to handle the weight of the sign itself? The only extra weight is the vinyl and paint. and its only about 50% of the full sheet.

Plan C might be making a metal frame that screws into the side edges. I could spread the weight among 3 screws along each edge. I would only want to do this if there was no hope for Plan B.

Any insight into how well ether option might work is greatly appreciated.

  • 1
    Can you explain HDO & MDO?
    – Michael Karas
    Jun 20, 2015 at 18:46
  • uslumberinc.com/hdo.html MDO is typically used for signage and HDO is often used for cement forms for pouring foundations. I went with HDO because it was only slightly more expensive than the from my supplier and was available faster then MDO.
    – JpaytonWPD
    Jun 20, 2015 at 22:07

4 Answers 4


A large sign should be hung with a fastener that is passes through a hole that is drilled through the face of the plywood.

Using fasteners into the edges of plywood is almost always to be discouraged because the threads of screws or lag bolt type fasteners just do not hold very well. In the case of a sign the hole in the top edge invites the possibility of moisture intrusion and the separation of layers which can further weaken an edge joint.

There are various types of hanger brackets that can be used for a face drilled fastener in the sign. Here is a picture of one type that could be used:

enter image description here


The pullout strength screwing into the edge might be questionable. Use shackle brackets and through bolt it, front to back. This would give you eyelets to hang it from.

Shackle Mounting Bracket: (expeditionexchange.com)

enter image description here

The red pin would be removed and a through bolt used in its place. Be sure that the 3/4 ply and the vinyl sign will both slip into the throat of the bracket. Shown is an example only, I'd take it over to the lumber isle and test fit it.

I suppose you could just use the pin that comes with it (which is intended to be removed easily) but I'd prefer a lock nut or a double nut. All hardware should be stainless or galvanized. Also, completely encapsulate the wood with paint.

You could improvise with a similar bracket, or even a strip of flexible metal, but anything you use should go through the face, not into the sides.

A cheaper (assuming you have on hand) and less esthetic solution would be to use short lengths of chain, washers and bolts.

Options B and C:

Would this be able to handle the weight of the sign itself? Yes.

Would the Big Bad Wolf come and huff and puff and blow my sign down? Yes.


There are two ways I like to hang signs: either oversize the sign substrate so you can bolt through the borders without damaging the sign face or for a borderless sign mount the substrate with elevator bolts (like carriage bolts but with a flat face), fill, sand, paint and then glue on or paint the sign text. The only time I end screw plywood is when I want ihe bucket of slime I hung from it to fall after I left.

  • Oversizing would have been the way to go but I did not consider it. Its a full sheet of printed vinyl going on it so I have about 3/4" extra. The sign is also double sided and hanging inside a post frame so no bolts.
    – JpaytonWPD
    Jun 21, 2015 at 11:54

Easy just thru - bolt it with eye hooks. Not every question is difficult to answer.enter image description here

  • Do you mean drill them through the face? I dont really have enough extra room.
    – JpaytonWPD
    Jun 21, 2015 at 11:56

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