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This question could be slightly misleading because I am not 100% sure of the terminology. I am replacing an old gutter - see existing installation below.

My understanding (from this article) is that I should attach gutter flashing underneath the shingles and have it (the flashing) come over the back edge of the gutter. However, my roof already has a drip edge installed (not gutter flashing), and it also has a small trim board attached to the fascia; this trim board is tucked underneath the drip edge. Also, the gutter is spaced off of the fascia by a bunch of little spacer blocks - this creates a gap between the gutter and the fascia board.

My question: is there any reason I shouldn't remove the spacer blocks and attach the new gutter directly to the fascia board? If I did that, I don't think that if I installed gutter flashing it would reach all the way down to the gutter, but considering that the drip edge would be hanging out over the gutter about an inch (the width of the little fascia trim board, plus the drip edge itself), I am wondering if I might be okay without adding actual gutter flashing...

Or, would it be better somehow to attach the gutter such that either the existing drip edge comes over the back edge of the gutter or add a piece of gutter flashing that extends down over the back edge of the gutter?

p.s. Can you tell me what that trim board on the fascia is called? That trim goes all the way around my entire roof-line (you can see it on the sloped edge as well), and I bet there's a term for it that I'm unaware of.

enter image description here Here's a view from the front

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Well I can tell you term for the 1X on the angled portion of the roof, it is rake mold. Most rake molds have a bit more elaborate profile, but there is no rule saying it can't be a simple piece of 1X. The term for the same piece running horizontally might be eave mold, but I have never heard or used it in all my years. This may have been a call made by the installing carpenter, for the idea of keeping things consistent, what is on the rakes, is also at the drip edge.

The blocks are there to keep the gutter from hanging at an angle under the roof edge so the rain does not over shoot the gutter, since it is fastened to the projecting 1X. If it was lowered, to eliminate the blocks, the rain when heavy enough, would shoot over the gutter, only light rains would be caught. If you are using aluminum gutters, you will need fasteners only 24-30 inches apart, unless you have heavy snow loads sliding off the roof, then you may need the fasteners every 16 inches. These blocks would only be needed at each fastener location. The composition roof may not let the snow slide, but the roof has a pretty high pitch.

  • thanks @Jack. one clarification is that the gutter is attached to the blocks themselves, not to the 1x "eave mold." so it wouldn't hang at an angle if I fastened it to the fascia itself, and it wouldn't necessarily be lower (although by being 3/4" closer to building with no spacer blocks the outside edge of the gutter may indeed miss heavy rains. I'll have to test with a hose) – susie derkins May 20 '15 at 13:39
  • Yup seen they were attached to the blocks, my suggestion was if the plastic gutters were removed that needed a lot of screws, and you went with aluminum gutters the blocks could be spaced farther apart. I would suggest raising the gutter up a little higher and if the screws still need to go into the blocks, at least the rain will have less of a chance to over shoot the gutter in heavy rains. If you removed the blocks and fastened it below the eave mold I am pretty sure you would see a lot of heavy rain miss the gutter. – Jack May 21 '15 at 5:48
  • Oh okay, I see what you were talking about. Thanks. Do you think there is any need to add gutter flashing to reduce the chance of water getting around behind the gutter and running down and slowly rotting the fascia? – susie derkins May 21 '15 at 18:02
  • If the fascias are kept up paint wise, you will be good, although, while the new gutters are being installed, a narrow strip of metal installed like you mention would serve you well. – Jack May 22 '15 at 7:16
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I can't tell you what is the right word for the thing you have asked about but I can tell you how to replace a gutter :) First of all this isn't ideal way to install a gutter and it should be replaced. Existing gutter is too far from the edge of the roof which is not good for several reasons. Now what you should do is to place new gutters (or old ones if they are in a good shape). Fix those gutters with a "hangers”. Hangers are elements which connect the roof and the gutter and look something like this:enter image description here

Upper part of the hanger should be covered with the shingles, and it should go a bit to the gutter (sorry for poor confusing sentence).This is the right way to do it. Now also having shingles as a roof cover maybe isn't best idea in the world (in some countries it is even forbidden for houses etc.); but that's different question.

  • Asphalt shingles are probably the most common roof covering in the United States. – Tester101 May 20 '15 at 11:57
  • Maybe, but that doesn't add to their quality right? And I have seen buildings covered with shingles with many issues cause by this material – python starter May 20 '15 at 13:44
  • depending on the quality of the single, how it was installed and other factors, an asphalt shingle roof can last 30+ years. While it may not be the best roof covering, shingle roof can function well and are very economical. – Tester101 May 20 '15 at 16:13
  • Ok.....I would never but them on my house.....And if I don't have enough money I would save somewhere else – python starter May 21 '15 at 14:21
  • @Tester101 in my country shingles is not allowed on the houses... – python starter Jun 2 '15 at 13:26

protected by Community Apr 2 '16 at 15:12

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