I'm going to be installing laminate flooring in a metal enclosed patio and am wondering how to handle the molding around the edge. I've done laminate flooring several times so I'm familiar with the install of the flooring but I'm having questions about how to finish the flooring due to the metal structure and cheap paneling so I don't really have anything to nail molding or 1/4-round to. Any help would be appreciated.

How to attach the 1/4 round or molding to cover the gap left to the wall for expansion, the room is one like this: http://www.doityourselfpatios.com/enclosures/images/Big_Enclosure12.jpg, where there is no substantial structure in the wall to nail or even screw to. I've only installed molding in wood framed homes where I had wood to nail the molding or 1/4 round to and I'm not sure in this instance what the proper way to do this would be. I was thinking just use some liquid nails to glue the molding to the wall.

  • Can you please explain bit more detailed what are your concerns and problems, because I couldn't figure it out from the question? Apr 13, 2015 at 19:43
  • Weld some small angle iron onto the metal portion prior to install? Would create the "end cap" you are looking for I'd think. Apr 13, 2015 at 20:59

2 Answers 2


There are many different types of moldings you can install that are around 1/2" thick that you can glue. Pine would glue down fine on metal (might require doing it in sections so you can keep pressure on it for a day).

I would not go with quarter round here because your gluing surface is so small and it will eventually move, get stepped on, furniture hitting it, and just look bad.

The other thing I have done with using laminate in sun rooms is run metal t-mold transitions all the way around. Here is an example.

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If I were using this exact one I would probably saw off the right side so it is only 1/4". This means you install the track, then flooring then glue the molding in the track after (just a little glue so it can be brought up if needed).

These are the only two things I have done. One is more indoorsy and traditional. It probably has a better chance of failing if the outside gets to it - water, large temp changes, dew. The transitions would work well for a wetter area. I do this for pool houses a lot.


If you're cheap, and you want to avoid a problem later, cut your moulding to fit, then use double sided carpet tape to stick it to the existing metal. Tape will stick better if the day is warm.

Another possibility

Use 1/2" L metal trim. Put it against your metal frame then drill 1/8" hole through the trim into the metal. Use blind rivets to fasten. If you use aluminum Ls the rivets will match. Otherwise paint to match.

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