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My bathroom door is leaning into the bathroom. The bottom of the door will touch the frame before the top does. Not sure what is causing it. It looks like a 2-3 degree tilt into the bathroom from the bottom to the top of the door.

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    Are you sure your bathroom didn't tilt in the opposite direction?
    – DMoore
    Apr 7, 2015 at 16:58
  • I'd fix it with a sledgehammer and a 2x4 (seriously), but I don't really suggest you trying that.
    – Mazura
    Jun 7, 2015 at 0:30

5 Answers 5

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If it's a wooden door, the door leaf could have warped/twisted. Quite often you can (if you have the space e.g. a workbench) cramp the door up so that it is twisted the opposite way, leave it for a few days and then when you release the cramps the door will spring back to a position where it is (substantially) flat.

If the door is already flat, then it may be that it has been hung incorrectly and you would need to recut the hinges most likely.

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Moving hinges and stops leaves you with a wonky setup that's visually odd and may result in poor latch alignment.

I'd start by checking for door warp. Get on a stool and look downward along the edge of the door. Swing your eyeline up to the far edge. Do you see a twist? If so, try flexing the door manually to adjust it. Place a shoe or some other padded blocky item in the path of the door and give it a few nudges. See if that has an effect. If not, consider bracing it under pressure for a few days to see if it relaxes and flattens.

If the door is flat, you may need to reset the jamb (door frame). If the wall has a twist in it, and the jamb was set flush with the wall, obviously the jamb will be twisted as well.

  1. Remove the casing (wall trim) on the hinge side of the door opening (or both, if convenient).

  2. Place a long (4-6 ft.) level vertically against the hinges. Check for plumb in both directions (parallel and perpendicular to the wall). Adjust as needed with shims, long screws through the hinges, and/or hidden screws behind hinge leaves.

  3. Now close the door and look at the gap at the top and latch side. It should be uniform and parallel. Adjust as needed.

  4. Check plumb on the latch side of the jamb, perpendicular to the wall (into and out of the room). You may need to set the jamb crooked with respect to the wall. This can be remedied to some extent by careful re-installation of the casing. You may need to shave back the drywall or plaster to get it to fit well.

By having all components of the jamb plumb, the door should now close well.

One trick to prevent latch rattle is to bend the tab on the strike plate slightly toward the jamb stop. This gives the bolt a surface to slide against when it pops back out into the latch bore, and maintains tension when the door is closed.

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Check the frame for a lean with a level. If the frame is square and true then you need to rehang the door: I.e., chisel out the hinges and rescrew them so the door hangs and swings perfectly perpendicularly to the frame.

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    The door could be warped too.
    – Jack
    Apr 7, 2015 at 3:06
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You can also use that same four to six foot level and lay it against the door and if there are any gaps on both ends of a level or in the middle of the level then you'll know the door is warped. Doors can be very tricky there are some Handymen that specialize in nothing but doors. Your house may have settled pushing the rough framework that the door frame is mounted in out of square or plumb that could be part of your problem as well and it could have miss shaped your door frame when this happened. In cases like this I often check the door for being warped first and if it is not then I will dismount the entire door frame and then remount it and let it relax as in don't screw it into type to conform to the shape of the rough opening as the rough opening might not be square anymore due to settling. You can shim it back up and screw it back in once again remembering to let the door frame relax. While you have the old door frame dismounted check it for squareness with a framing square in all corners. If it is square proceed with remounting the door and you shouldn't have any more problems as long as you let the door frame stay relaxed and square and don't make it conform to the shape of the misshapen rough opening.

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If you want a quick/easy fix, just reset the door jamb. The jamb is the 1 x 1/4 moulding that the door hits when it is closed. This can be removed and a new one added where the door actually closes. As long as the door isn't too far out of line, no one will ever notice.

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  • I believe you're referring to the "stop". The jamb is the entire door frame. They're usually more like 3/8" to 1/2" in thickness. Moving the stop could seriously mess up the latch alignment.
    – isherwood
    Jan 5, 2016 at 15:09

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