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Hello everyone I am new to this so I apologize if I seem a little slow mentally.

I have a 104 yr old home that at one point had a deck that was completely enclosed. my issue is that the floor was built at a slope for run off but was never corrected after the room was built. the floor itself is 3/4 tounge and groove. So here is the other issue. I only have about a 1/4 of an inch to work with at most on top of the sloped subfloor at the threshold. to be honest I believe the finished floor and the sub floor were meant to be the same in this room. I would like some suggestions on how to not only level the floor but also be able to add a finished floor on top of it.

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    Can you please provide some pics? It would mean a lot in order to help you properly – python starter Mar 25 '15 at 15:11
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Basically you build a new deck on top of it:

enter image description here

In your situation, I'd cut long triangles to use as sleepers, opposed to the shim technique shown here. Subfloor it with 3/4" plywood. Finish with your desired floor covering.

Use a table saw to rip 2x4's; having one end zero inches and the other 2". Install them directly above the existing joists, drilling pockets from the top down if needed, for screws.

Blocking between the joists is advised.

The finished floor will be slightly higher than the adjacent one (that's what thresholds are for), take into account the clearance for any doors that open out, onto it.

If the height discrepancy or if clearance is an issue, you're looking at having to gut the decking. This would enable you to sister to the old joists and bring it up to level, while keeping a low profile.

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Sounds like a job for self-levelling floor underlayment and sheet vinyl (often misnamed as linoleum where cultural memory has not kept pace with actual materials), vinyl tile, or vinyl plank - most wood laminates are going to blow your 1/4."

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  • I'm concerned that putting that down would be not only very expensive but a pain to remove if ever needed. The room is 800 Sq ft and is 2in lower on the outer most wall. – Joshua Hitch Mar 25 '15 at 0:28
  • Why would you be removing it? If you are demoing the entire floor, it's not that big of an additional pain. Nothing else really works all that well to level a feather-edge. You could toss some filler in the low side if you find the underlayment too expensive on a volume basis, but I can't think of anything other than continuing to ignore the slope, or jacking up the low wall (which may break a bunch of other stuff, since it was built that way, rather than settling) that will work in this situation. – Ecnerwal Mar 25 '15 at 0:41
  • Self-leveling materials cannot be applied at this thickness; cracks might appear, plus it can be expensive. – python starter Mar 25 '15 at 15:09
  • @pythonstarter False. I already mentioned the possible use of filler (ie, 3/4 or even 1-1/4 plywood at the deep end) and it's dead easy to find a product that says: "May be applied from featheredge to 2 in. thick; is extendable to 5 in. with aggregate" (another form of filler) That one was "USG Durock™ Brand EcoCap™ Self-Leveling Underlayment" but there are plenty of others. SOME products cannot be installed that thick, but those would be the products NOT to choose. – Ecnerwal Mar 25 '15 at 15:17
  • FWIW, linoleum is still widely available and used (and preferred in a lot of cases) – DA01 May 29 '15 at 21:19

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