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A few months back I had a problem with the cold tap in my upstairs bathroom — no water would come out after turning it on. I also noticed that the flexible tap hose underneath the basin was damp and sometimes dripping a little bit. So I got a plumber out who fixed the lack of water problem by replacing the tap thread. I rather assumed that that was also the cause of the flexible tap hose dampness, but I was wrong. Then I noticed that there was a tiny gap where the tap wasn't 100% over the hole, so I loosened the back nut and repositioned it to close off the hole.

small gap in between tap and basin

Unfortunately that didn't solve the hose dampness/dripping problem. So now I'm thinking that the problem is perhaps due to the flexible hose being past its best. So I'd like to change the hose.

As a DIY/plumbing newbie, I don't recognize the connection between the hose and the plastic piping. At first I thought it was a standard braided hose, but then when I unscrewed the nut, the thread of the hose is connected to what looks a bit like a compression olive. Is anyone familiar with the connection? And would a reasonably handy but inexperienced DIYer be wise to fix it himself, or is this a job for a pro?

the unknown connection underneath the basin

EDIT: To assist with Duncan's helpful answer, I'm adding two images:

Where the T connection leads View from the hot tap side

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  • Would you happen to be in Great Britan? I ask that because that is one of the few places that still uses separate hot and cold water taps in bathroom sinks. Those kind of sinks are pretty rare in the states. They are mostly only found in very old homes. Mar 2 '15 at 17:21
  • Indeed I am in Britain. York, England to be a little more precise. My house is a 1930s mid terrace. A bit off-topic but I found out recently that in the north the taps are on opposite sides to those in the south (north = Left is cold and right is hot, south = left is hot and right is cold).
    – Jimadine
    Mar 2 '15 at 21:02
  • when you re-positioned the faucet did you put plumbers putty underneath it? just because the gap is covered does not mean it is sealed. you need a generous amount of putty to keep any water (splashed up from the basin) from running under the faucet and down the hose.
    – Alaska Man
    Sep 24 '16 at 19:42
  • @Alaska man: No I didn't use plumber's putty, but thanks for the tip! If it starts to drip again, which it hasn't since last year, I'll get some putty in.
    – Jimadine
    Sep 25 '16 at 9:48
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First find out were leak is coming from. I like to use toilet paper it shows very little trace of water. Water could be splashing through hole you pointed out. Top hose connection could need new washer. You can steal one from hose you have that doesn't fit.

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You can do it!

That looks like a flare fitting to me. What is the grey "T" its connected to? You may be able to get rid of that and use a regular pipe T and gain space to eliminate the kink.

If you just want to replace the braided hose unscrew it from the top and take it to your plumbing supply place and ask them for a new one.

OK you guys apparently call them (flare fittings) cone fittings.

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  • Thanks for the reply. I've added a couple more images which might help answer your question about what the "T" is connected to — though I was thinking of simply replacing the hose. I have a couple of spare braided hoses from another (simpler) job (straightforward copper pipe to hose). Problem in this case is that it looks like the thread is wedged into the copper olive-like ring, rather than screwed in. Does it look like a definite screw-in job? I'll do some some googling on "flare fitting" as I probably just need to understand how they work.
    – Jimadine
    Mar 1 '15 at 16:43
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What looks like a compression olive is, in fact, a compression olive. The flexible hose has a compression fitting, therefore (even when using plastic pipe) you need a compression olive for watertightness. As long as the plastic pipe also has a plastic insert in the end, your photo shows a perfectly normal connection.

The replacement is definitely within the realms of the DIY plumber (it's the sort of thing I'd do). However, it is not clear from the photos that the leak is due to the flexible hose. The olive looks like it may be a bit knackered (though this may just be the quality of the photo), which may be the cause of the leak. I'm guessing though, as I can't tell from the photo were the leak is located.

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I know this is an older post but may help someone this connection could be what is called a "shark bite easy connect" and if it is you need a special tool that takes the "bite" and opens it so it then pops off. if you Google plumbing shart bite you will get the info to learn and know. good luck from a diy'er whose never afraid to learn and fix the broke. A "pro" I'm not but have accomplished a lot! sign a girl with a mind fueled with will power. When all fails get a cutter and start over for this too shall pass and every little things gonna be alright! 😉

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  • I don't think Sharkbite makes a PVC coupling. They're all brass.
    – JACK
    Jun 26 at 10:53

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