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I have a laminate "click together" flooring and some of the board have separated.

If I kick my foot on some of the boards, I can scooch some of them together. However, its not very effective. Is there a tool for closing floorboards. Perhaps something that has a rubber foot to stick to the board that I can tap along with a hammer?

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A suction cup (~$12) and a rubber mallet:

From:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6mmhet1bp9U

... its possible to stick the suction cup to the floor board and tap it with a rubber mallet. Glue can be applied in the gaps. The gaps should be cleared of debris first.

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    While Q&A style self-answering is definitely encouraged, please take the time to include a quality answer rather than just a link to YouTube. As is, I'm hesitant to upvote your correct but low quality answer. – Doresoom Jan 27 '15 at 16:37
  • Sorry -- I found it shortly after I posted. I figured it would be helpful to other people who had the same problem. Will update the text. – user48956 Jan 27 '15 at 18:10
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So, someone finally made a product for this. Mine is on the way so I'll let you know how it works. It's an aluminum bar with a micro-suction material on it. Simple but genius.

https://www.floorgapfixer.com/

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    Hello, and welcome to Stack Exchange. This comes close to the line of spam, IMHO. Better if you describe what the product is like, rather than pointing to the actual website. (I doubt this is the only one available.) – Daniel Griscom Sep 30 '16 at 15:01
  • Great tool thanks for posting the info. I couldn't find anything besides the HOD to close these without removing the baseboards. When that didn't work I thought I was sol. – Mike Oct 11 '16 at 12:52
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Apply wood glue in the gap, kick the boards together with your foot or a hammer + piece of scrap wood in the gap on the other side, and then tape the now-glued-together boards with a couple pieces of masking tape or blue painter's tape.

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    Then you have another gap. – DMoore Jan 27 '15 at 16:29
  • @DMoore Repeat 20+ times? Yikes. – Doresoom Jan 27 '15 at 16:35
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    Should take an hour or two, then the problem's gone forever. – iLikeDirt Jan 27 '15 at 16:45
  • @Doresoom - that is an understatement. If you install wrong and have a gap the boards aren't at a 1 to 1 relationship. You knock one board over, then the 2 boards behind it are jacked, each of those boards are connected to two boards... Some gaps might not be able to be fixed properly without pretty much dismantling half a room. – DMoore Jan 27 '15 at 18:40
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I had 15-20 gaps in the entire house. Last time I pulled the baseboard and used a prybar and the z-bar that I used for installation. I had my wife help so I wouldn't damage the boards. I added glue to the gaps before closing them and I did this in one room. I glued those ones and a month later more gaps appeared in other areas of the room. I checked youtube and the internet and found that people were using the "Handle on Demand". I was pretty excited about it. I bought one and it was wider than my flooring (mine are 3" wide). I saw Dylan post and checked out this "floor gap fixer". I decide to buy one since it would fit my flooring and the videos on youtube showed it working well. You move one board at a time until you get to the wall. I was able to do it myself and it went quick. I only added glue to the first gap. It was quick and worked well. Much better than pulling the baseboard again. I am no longer dreading the day when my wife spots a gap. I will update you If anything changes but for me it was worth it. I am thinking about starting a business to close gaps after seeing all of the views on these youtube videos.

  • I have a question for Mike: Were you fixing gaps at the end of boards, or between boards?> I have a big gap between boards lengthwise, and I am wondering if this tool worked for you that way. Thank you. Anyone else? – Margaret Grove Radford Feb 14 at 17:25
  • I did not have any of those gaps. Sorry I can't help. – Mike Apr 3 at 18:23
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It is normal for laminate flooring to expand and contract with changing seasons and changing humidity. The important thing is that it must not be fastened down at the edges, or pinned under too-tight or toenailed baseboards. The whole floor needs to be able to contract as a unit, with the slack taken up at the edges. If the edges cannot move, then the boards will pull apart.

  • I don't think that's the problem I have. There was a water leak and some expansion. There are many 1/8 gaps between the boards where the leak happened and none elsewhere. The whole floor is also floated. – user48956 Jan 28 '15 at 6:38

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