I have the two products below and I need them to go in a single gang box that used to be a simple 1-pole switch.

Product pages:


Now I need the USB outlet (1 hot, 1 neutral) to always have power while the switch (1 hot, 1 3-way, 1 one-pole) will only pass power through when on. Wall plate has the ground.

There are three incoming wires (1 hot, 1 neutral, 1 ground).

Desired states:

  1. switch is on: USB has power, light has power
  2. switch is off: USB has power, light does not have power

How do I need to wire this up to achieve these states?

  • Maybe all neutrals connected but put the USB hot into the switched 3-way?
    – Enigma
    Dec 21 '14 at 3:04
  • 1
    ^ The above is also a no-go.
    – Enigma
    Dec 21 '14 at 3:13
  • Are you sure the ground wire is not another hot wire (the load)? If it is a ground wire, you need to have two hots, line and load. Load goes to the COM screw (should be black), line connects on the other side, and then neutral below the line. I have it wired this way and it works exactly as you would like it to.
    – user32439
    Feb 5 '15 at 4:39

The switched circuit, and the USB outlet, hook up in parallel.

REVISED DIAGRAM, after figuring out that the mention of three-way switch was a red herring:

FROM POWER SOURCE:     SWITCH                           TO CONTROLLED LOAD

HOT  __________________./ .__________________________________ Switched Hot
                          USB OUTLET   
NEUTRAL __|__________________________________________________ Neutral (if present) 

GROUND ______________________________________________________ Ground (if present)
          |_____________. BOX GROUND

The USB is connected to hot and neutral.

The switch is connected between hot and the switched load.

Saftey ground for the box is connected to ground.

If the switched hot is bundled with a neutral, that is also connected to neutral.

If the switched hot is bundled with a ground, that is also connected to safety ground.

Note that a three-way switch is not required in this case. If that's what you bought you can use it, but you'll do so by connecting only one of the switch's outputs and leaving the other unconnected.

Also note that a switch sharing a box with a house-current outlet on the same branch is exactly the same as I've shown here, with that outlet replacing the USB transformer and its outlet. This may not be obvious if the previous unit combined the outlet and switch into a single component, but that's what's happening internally.

  • Thanks for the info and I believe I already tried the configuration you mentioned the first time. What I saw however was that the light switch portion worked but the UBS charging only worked in the off position and exhibited the issues outlined here: diy.stackexchange.com/questions/55570/…
    – Enigma
    Dec 21 '14 at 4:36
  • If you did what I described, it would work. So you didn't.
    – keshlam
    Dec 21 '14 at 4:40
  • I could use more explanation here: "Incoming neutral to neutral on USB and outgoing neutral. (Attach a pigtail from the USB, and connect this, the outgoing neutral, and the incoming neutral together with a wire nut.)" - What is the outgoing neutral you are referring to?
    – Enigma
    Dec 21 '14 at 4:41
  • There are three incoming wires (1 hot, 1 neutral, 1 ground). That is all that is in the box I'm working in.
    – Enigma
    Dec 21 '14 at 4:44
  • Is there a free circuit drawing tool I could use to map out what I have done?
    – Enigma
    Dec 21 '14 at 4:44

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