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I've had my 50" TV on a heavy articulated mount on the wall for 3 months. the other day i angled it to watch from the dining table like always and the top two 1/4" toggle bolts ripped out of the wall. Then the lower 2. No damage to the TV, just my wrists.

The cheapest drywall I have ever seen. The TV was not mounted into studs( I know I know...but it hung for a year in my last place not in studs either...).

Now, because I have holes in which to look into, I can see the studs. They are metal, about an inch and a half wide and I have drilled 2 new holes in them. BUT, the studs are 23 inches apart, not 16 as usual and so the mount isn't wide enough to ensure all 4 holes can be drilled through metal studs.

The problem now is that the 2 holes on the left side are drilled above the spots where the drywall was ripped out with a chunk missing(now patched)from each hole. What kind of support can I expect from these 2 holes? The new holes are about 5 inches up from the ripped out holes.The guy at Lowes says that 90% of the weight will be supported by the 2 studs in the metal studs. TRUE? So can I assume that the 2 holes on the left side won't tear out like their predecessors did?

My only other option would be to drill through the other side into the bedroom and place a piece of plywood there hoping that that would suffice. But I really don't want to do this. Should I risk mounting assuming that two toggles in a metal stud will hold?

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Personally, I'd lean toward installing something rigid (wood/plywood/metal) that bridges between the studs and installing the TV on that, so the weight is going to the studs on both sides. Depending on your skill level and what you're placing around it, that could be a simple pair of one-bys painted to match the wall, or a nicely finished piece of plywood with picture-frame trim around the outside edge, or a fancy cabinet with tambour doors or...

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    Or rip out the area between the studs and insert wood behind the drywall before patching again; in an efficient world, do that before patching the first time, as it would then add virtually no work. In any case, it can be invisible. – Ecnerwal Dec 11 '14 at 0:41
  • Ditto @Ecnerwal, It can be added by slotting the drywall about 6 inches high and inserting the larger plywood through the slot. Since the drywall needs repaired anyway.... – Jack Dec 11 '14 at 3:53
  • Well, that would be the answer IF I owned the house and not renting. Ripping out the drywall to add studs is way not happening. I am trying to decide if two toggles mounted in the metal stud will hold the TV coupled with the two on the left in just the drywall. If not, I would drill straight through and use a piece of plywood for support. – Goman Dec 11 '14 at 5:52
  • ...you already ripped out drywall with the TV mount. And we are nut suggesting adding a stud. – Ecnerwal Dec 11 '14 at 15:47
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    Actually it is 1 1/2 x 10 but they are called 2 by tens. I really like this idea and will do it. Although adding another 10 lbs for the wood is on my mind too. I figure four toggles into metal studs should do the trick. Thanx for your clarification keshlam. – Goman Dec 11 '14 at 20:23
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Success. I used a 2 x 10 long enough to ensure mounting to the two metal studs. I drilled the 4 half-inch holes in the wood for the toggle bolts (rated at 265 lbs each) to go through. Measure twice... For mounting the articulating bracket I drilled the 4 holes and countersunk the backside to cover the bolt heads using a 1" spade bit for that side which touches the wall. I used double washers here. So, it fits smoothly and won't leave imprints in the wall. Then, the latest dilemma occurred to me. Because of the thickness of the wood, the screws that came with the toggles wouldn't be long enough, so I had to drop everything and go back to the store for some 5" 1/4 20's to be able to slip through the wood and have enough turns to ensure the toggles were actually secure. Washers on the front side too. The sucker is on solid now. Thanks for the idea and all the help.

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