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If I trip the sensor by driving the car outside, the light goes on. The remote won't work. If I then go in the garage and push the button to turn on the light and then leave the garage without tripping the sensor, the remote functions normally.

This is a Chamberlain Lift Master using a Clicker remote. The problem started recently after 15 years of faultless service. The EMF idea suggested in comments sounded great, but didn't pan out. I tried a new battery, but no luck there. In short, when the door opener light is on, the remote won't work. When it's off, the remote works fine.

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    The light is causing an EMF that blocks the weak signal from your remote; change the little battery in there. (-gives SortingHat back to Ecnerwal-)
    – Mazura
    Nov 16, 2014 at 0:08
  • The logic board was bad so I had it replaced and all is well. Nov 20, 2014 at 18:02
  • @GrandpaDude Please post that as an answer and then accept it so that this question is closed out. Thanks!
    – Niall C.
    Dec 2, 2014 at 17:46

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CFL bulbs used in the opener cause signal blockage until fully lit. I don't know why but while the CFL bulb is flickering the signal gets blocked. After the bulb warms up, and stops flickering (about 30-60 seconds) your garage door remote should work fine. This can be tested easily enough. Does the remote open your door when you just get home and open door? Door opened because the light was off. But when you are leaving the garage, you use wall switch to open the door and can't close it by remote while trying to drive away. That's because the CFL bulb is still warming up after you just opened the door to leave. Easy solution is to change out CFL bulb with incandescent light (old style bulb with filament). I've heard that LED lights do this too, but my hunch is that some folks think CFLs are LEDs and are calling them by the wrong name. LEDs are instantly on and quite expensive, while CFLs flicker until warmed up and purchase price is pretty low. So change to incandescent in Door Opener and happy motoring. Appliance bulbs are perfect for Garage door Openers.

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  • I just ran into this same problem, and sure enough, it was the LED bulbs I'd started using. Removing them immediately made everything work again. Huh!
    – T Hallman
    Sep 3, 2017 at 20:42
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Every thing your problem mention above all happen to me, after I read the manual over over over and finally I decide to adjust the forces up and down less then 1/4 turn from 0 and all my remote control and key pad working normal. I think if you adjust the force up or down to mush the safety fixture think they on something! and making the door stop working. Sorry for my English.

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This happened to me after a power outage. I thought that the low power circuit wasn't getting enough power when the bulb relay is energized. I went ahead and replaced the largest electrolytic capacitor even though it didn't look bulged. The original was 330uF 35V, I replaced it with 470uF 35V. It fixed the issue.

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    Hmm, randomly replacing a capacitor in a device, and with one that's rated differently, along with no actual testing, is just bizarre at best.
    – Nelson
    Sep 20, 2023 at 3:31
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    @Nelson -- generally speaking, for a power supply reservoir cap, more capacitance isn't going to harm things. Electrolytics are a known limited-life part as well, and a failing electrolytic cap would be consistent with the hypothesis that the power supply for the LV bits is browning out under heavy load... Sep 20, 2023 at 3:42
  • @Nelson, when I was about 10, I learned the hard way to check the capacitor voltage rating and polarity. As you can see, the replacement cap is rated at the same 35V, so no issues. Also replacing "the largest" cap is not very random. I'd hook up a scope to see what's going on with the power if the garage door opener wasn't a hard enough thing to get on the bench - you gotta have it wired live to really troubleshoot. So let's just say that my guesses were somewhat educated. Sep 21, 2023 at 12:38

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