I have a couple Rex folding lounge chairs:

enter image description here

However, during my move one of the bolts connecting the base to the side came loose and was lost. I took out the one from the other side and I've never seen something like it and I'm not sure where to find a replacement. It has larger diameter shoulder portion above the threads and a narrow. unthreaded region below the threads. It's got a low profile slotted pan head. The narrower lower unthreaded region runs up and down in a groove in the leg when the chair folds/unfolds.

Here is a picture of the bolt:

enter image description here

What is this called? Anyone know where to order one?

  • That looks like a pretty special unit to me I doubt you'll find one at home depot. It doesn't look like anything a skilled machinist couldn't fashion out of a carriage bolt on a lathe though, might be worth the phone call?
    – user23534
    Oct 29, 2014 at 23:51
  • 1
    @paperstreet You could probably fake one up using a drill-press, a bit of plastic tubing for the chuck to grip onto and a hand file. Cordless drill might even suffice if you clamped it down somehow. Oct 30, 2014 at 2:00
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    If you bought it new, for what you paid for it, they should send you a replacement bolt.
    – DA01
    Oct 30, 2014 at 5:12
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    The term is pivot bolt, but this is a specialized type that is custom made for this application. Nov 1, 2014 at 20:43
  • I would of suggested drilling it out to use a standard bolt but looking up Rex chairs after DA01's comment, they had better send you one.
    – Mazura
    Nov 1, 2014 at 21:04

1 Answer 1


You are not going to find this on a shelf, you may get one from the manufacturer of the chair, if you talk nice and beg. Otherwise the chance is slim.

I would get a pan or philister head machine screw with the threaded portion about 1" longer than the screw pictured is over all. Chuck 3/4" of the threaded end in a drill and crank it down. Turn on the drill, keep it steady and run a file to grind off the threads exposed beyond the drill chuck to smooth the shank like the one in the picture. Since the screw is longer than needed and the drill damaged the end of the threads to hold it while it was spinning, cut it off and soften the corners like the original.

The drawing I referred to earlier

enter image description here

  • You could suggest that if the bolt that the OP goes to buy has threads farther up to the head than the original it may be a good idea to fill the extra part of the threads with epoxy to smooth the upper shank of the bolt so it does not cut the wood in the bolt hinge hole. I would suggest gobbing on plenty of the epoxy, such as JB Weld brand, and then after it is fully set up you can use the drill idea to spin the bolt and file off the excess epoxy to get a nice smooth round upper shank.
    – Michael Karas
    Oct 30, 2014 at 6:15
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    This will get the beginning of the thread between the bolt head and the smoothed part slightly damaged. To prevent that you drive a nut onto the thread and once grinding is complete you drive the nut away and it kind of restores the thread - see this diy.stackexchange.com/q/12465/807 for more details.
    – sharptooth
    Oct 31, 2014 at 13:18
  • Sharptooth, please reread the part about the bolt being 1" longer than needed, and chucking that into the drill only 3/4" That gives a 1/4" play to cut it off with no damage.
    – Jack
    Nov 1, 2014 at 1:52
  • @Jack: I've read that carefully. I'm talking about the thread part that is closer to the head, not the part which will be cut off. Both are damaged when you grind and the former needs to be restored, otherwise how will you use the bolt?
    – sharptooth
    Nov 1, 2014 at 14:46
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    If you wish to call the burs created by the file as damage, so be it. I have used files to create the leading thread for nuts to start on. Just as you suggested, a nut can be placed on the screw first before it is chucked into the drill. That way of removing it will clear the bur/damage. IMHO, the portion of shank that has been cleared of threads will act as a guide to allow the nut to go right on. Cross-threading will not be the issue here, which is usually the concern when grinding or cutting something with threads.
    – Jack
    Nov 3, 2014 at 19:07

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