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I need to pour a level pad 2 1/4 inches thick to support a cast iron tub on top of our slab (the floors are raised 2 1/4 inches). I would like to use a self-leveling compound (like this one), but it says it can only be poured up to 1 inch thick.

I am wondering if it can be poured thicker than that if I form it properly or if there is a better solution.

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    Some products have a maximum thickness per batch, but after they have cured additional layers can be added. I don't know whether this is such a case or not; just raising it as something to check. – keshlam Sep 17 '14 at 1:58
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    tecskillset.com/tile-installation-products/step-1/… is quoted to 2" in two pours, not quite 2 1/4 but close? – Simon P Sep 17 '14 at 19:28
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If I understand your question you are creating a raised floor section, 2 1/4 inches higher than the floor below it and you want to place you tub at this height.

I think that you have some sort of frame in place into which you want to pour the LevelQuik, filling it up, so that it will cure into a level surface.

I suggest against that. The maximum thickness of the LevelQuik is stated because, among other reasons, it may not cure properly when poured too thick and it may lose structural integrity when poured too thick.

I'd suggest you use a Deck Mud mix and scree it to your level. If you're nervous about the trueness of the level you could pour the Deck Mud slightly below your line than pour LevelQuik on top of it.

  • Thanks for the idea. I had considered doing this. I think I am just going to poor a new concrete pad to the desired height. I purchased a laser level so that I can be sure my forms are perfectly level. – BWDesign Sep 18 '14 at 9:51
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Pour regular concrete up to 1/2 inch below level, then pour leveling compound on top 1/2 inch thick.

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    Welcome to Home Improvement. The intention is that each answer provide a solution that has not already been contributed. This essentially duplicates the last sentence in Matthew's answer. – fixer1234 Mar 25 '18 at 1:41
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The key issue with screeds is that they’re based on a Portland cement and the chemical reaction requires water as the catylist. The cement takes up the water, bonding it as c3a first and then c2a. The resultant chemical bonds produce a material that in effect is smaller in volume than the original mix. Heat of hydration drives off yet more moisture and consequently, thicker pours result in cracks developing in the screed. Basically, if you want a thicker screed, make sure it’s slow setting- don’t use heating to speed up the process, you could opt for a cement with a fly ash additive. It takes longer to cure. Whilst you could also opt to pour a concrete base and then level off with a screed, you need to ensure the screed itself is thick enough because there will be a cold joint between screed and concrete and if the final pour is too thin, it might start breaking apart.

  • Hello, and welcome to Stack Exchange. The original questioner was asking about self-leveling compound, which I believe is different from screed. – Daniel Griscom Dec 2 '18 at 13:59
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Uzin NC 170 goes as thick as want in a single pour. This is what we use I'm the flooring industry.

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