I bought this pull up bar that is designed to go into studs that are 16" apart Ultimate Body Press

enter image description here

My basement walls are only framed out so I can see all of the studs. I started to mount it and realized the studs are 18" OC. I'm trying to think of the best way to get this mounted and strong.

My leading idea right now is to buy 2 more 2x6 studs and attach them to the inside of the existing ones. There is nothing running through the studs so it should be as simple as lining them up and screwing them together. I would do a few screws horizontally and then 2 on the top and bottom at a 45 degree angle to attach to the base and top horizontal studs. I believe the term is toeing?

Are there any downsides to this approach now or in the future. At some point we will finish the basement and cover this all up with drywall.

  • Your own proposed solution is best. I would glue the 2x6's in as well as screwing them. And make sure you use wood screws, not drywall screws. – Doresoom Aug 17 '14 at 22:06

Your approach is sound. I wouldn't bother toeing screws in from top/bottom. I would drill through both the stud and the filler board and attach with nuts/bolts/washers (as opposed to threading a screw into the stud). Two bolts above the bar and two below.

Alternatively you can attach horizontal 2x4's across your studs with recessed lag bolts and then mount the pull-up bar to those. Since the 2x4's will be attached to the studs the same way the pull-up bar would have been attached you won't lose much connective strength.


An alternative would be to hang one horizontal 2x6, 16-1/2" long, horizontally between two adjacent studs. That wouldn't be as sturdy as two vertical "married" studs, though. Yep, Toeing, or toenailing if you do it with nails. Nails TEND to be better - they're not as hard, but they're stronger than most equivalent screws.

Another alternative would be to redrill the chinup bar so both supports can be moved outward to exactly accomodate your stud spacing. If you're not close to the bar's max weight limit, that'd be the best approach.


Through-bolt it (with big washers on the backside) through a 2 x 10 or 2 x 12 (or lumber that you feel is appropriately strong),like 24" long, attached horizontally to your 18" OC studs. Basically span the stud bay.


The correct term is laminating, then you should also toe-nail it. I could not find the nailing schedule for laminating 2x6's. Use 2 rows of 16d in a staggered pattern. Or go nuts and use bolts and nails. Consider adding brackets to all toe nailed areas (all four locations). If you don't own nor want to rent a framing nail gun, at least use deck screws, not anything made for drywall. With a hammer (yikes) you may want to laminate them on the floor first and then reinstall the new 'post'.

From the ASHI Reporter on x12:

Nailed and bolted connections: For laminating l-¾"-wide LVLs up to three 12-inch-deep plies, look for two rows of 16d nails spaced 12 inches on center. The rows should be nailed from both sides with the spacing staggered. For three plies over 12 inches deep, look for three rows of 16d nails, again 12 inches on center, both sides with a staggered pattern. For laminating four or more plies (generally, it is not recommended to exceed four plies), look for two rows, three inches from the top and bottom of ½"-diameter through-bolts with fender washers on both faces, every two feet on center, with a staggered pattern, in addition to the regular nailing schedule specified above. Other details we should look for include proper post caps, splices and beam pockets.

Your Answer

By clicking “Post Your Answer”, you agree to our terms of service, privacy policy and cookie policy

Not the answer you're looking for? Browse other questions tagged or ask your own question.