This is problematic. The most obvious: Your PV panels will be generating power all day, while you're likely to want to operate lights all night but not so much during the day. That means your PVs will need to feed a battery bank through a PV controller/charger (which is usually contained inside the inverter anyway), and said battery bank will need to be in a well-ventilated location, which means that it'll probably be fairly distant from the area you want to light... so you're going to suffer a lot of line loss between the panels, the controller, the batteries, then up to the lighted area.
Since you're going to need a battery bank, you'll be running either 12V or 24V. 12V lights are much more common than 24V lights (at least in the USA), so we'll assume you're using 12V. Now, lumen-for-lumen, a 12V light will require ten times as much current as a 120V light will... meaning a single 100W (incandescent) would require roughly 8A. Multiply that by two floors, say three rooms per floor, and you have 48A. You cannot safely draw 48A through your 1940s-era house lighting circuit.
Even if you could, the voltage drop would kill you to death. In the early 1960s, Volkswagen was still holding onto its 6V battery instead of migrating up to a 12V system, and the result was chronic low lighting efficiency and low starting currents, just because at 6V, the voltage drop in the car's wiring was so large. Eventually 8V upgrade kits were sold, including nothing more than an 8V battery and an 8V voltage regulator... but retaining the same old 6V lights and starter, because a 2V (25%) voltage drop (inside a 20'long car!) was pretty much to be expected. In your house, a 10' run would reach from one floor to the next, but you're more likely to be looking at a total 100' or 150' run from PV panel to light bulb. Maybe 250'. That's going to buy you a huge voltage drop at 12VDC.