Is it a bad idea to use pine for painted exterior siding if prepared properly?

Question

My house is about 95 years old, and currently has wood clapboard siding that is in pretty rough shape and needs to be replaced. My local lumber yard has 1/2" x 6" for $0.53/linear foot. Since vinyl starts around $2.50/linear foot, I am considering trying the pine out. I would install it myself. I am already close to underwater in my mortgage, and don't want to invest in vinyl right now.

I did a lot of research on the best way to cover the knots in pine, and people seem to have the best luck with this BIN Primer with a shellac base. http://www.rustoleum.com/product-catalog/consumer-brands/zinsser/primer-sealers/b-i-n-shellac-base-primer. People say that it is VERY important to do 2 coats. One that dries at least 30 minutes, and one that dries overnight. Then primer, then paint.

Is it a bad idea to replace the siding with pine? I am in the Northeastern US.

Answer 1

Pine has been the traditional siding in the Northeastern US for several hundred years (along with cedar shingles). Painting is the standard protection.

While numerous products are lower maintenance, if you have the skill (not too much required) and time to keep it up (a good bit required), it should be fine.

Answer 2

Pine is a poor choose for siding in the northeast, and it is far more expensive than spec grade vinyl siding. Even though pine is used often for trim, when it is used to side an entire building expect the following problems. Wider boards, 1/2 X 6 and larger have a habit of checking and cupping when exposed to prolonged heat and moisture. Exterior pine needs to be primed on BOTH sides and on the cut ends. Cedar or fir is a much better material. The grain of pine tends to raise, and gaps around knots may start to appear over time. Unless you use a shiplap, T&G, or board and batten, shrinkage will occur creating gaps between boards.

A spec grade vinyl runs around $60 to $80 per square, that is 100 square feet or apx $0.40 to $0.50 per linear foot for 4 inch exposure. There is no cost involved for priming and painting which can add substantial costs. It installs faster and will definitely outlast pine siding.

I personally would never recommend or install pine siding for a customer because I don't want a call in two years from an unhappy customer.

Answer 3

Pine will work fine if prep on the wood is done correctly. Prime all ends, the back, the front and two coats of paint on front and ends. This is usually good for 10 plus years. Pine siding has been around on homes and barns in my northeast area of the US for well over 100 years. Some homes over 100 years old have the original wood barn siding as well as bevel lap; sure it may be beat up, but the siding is still standing. I would keep the bevel lap siding to a max of 6 inches, as larger is more prone to cupping. This is just the advice of an old man who has put up with a lot of pine siding. It does offer a better look then Vinyl does; but today I would opt for smart siding or fiber cement my self. Less maintenance, and less carpenter ants and bee issues too.

Answer 4

Paint weathering tests show southern pine to be the poorest wood for holding paint. That is, using the same paint (various paints were used in different tests), the paint failed on pine first. Paints lasted longest on cedar and redwood. It was a significant difference, I don't remember exactly but roughly paint would fail on pine in 3 years and last over 10 years on cedar/redwood. The test panels were fully exposed to sun and rain. (Sherwin-Williams tests at Kure Beach North Carolina done long ago.) My experience is the any paint lasts very well on cement board.

Answer 5

Just one comment, without a doubt there is/will be much more maintenance with pine. For most I think it should lie with what is your personal preference. Having said that, one thing not mentioned in the previous comments, is that wood adds an insulating value to your home as well, far more than a vinyl product.

Answer 6

I live in an area where woodpeckers are prevelant, as well as fire, for me it wood be cementious materials like Hardy/Hardi plank, I hate the joints exposed, but great outcome on my project. Bob in Sisters, Oregon

Answer 7

I sided most of my home in New Hampshire 20 yrs ago with 16' clear pine boards rough side out. I did use Zinsser BIN sealer on the knots, primed and painted but I didn't prime and paint the smooth back side up against the house. Back then I think 160' feet was about $100 so that's ~$180/SQ.

15 yrs ago I also used PFJ pine that are primed on both sides. These are outlasting the clear pine since the primed side certainly helps. Just 2 wks ago I had to replace only a couple of these boards and tack down some nails that are pulling from cupping. Overall pretty good siding. I think then 16' boards were $125 which are now $180 or $340/SQ.

Starting maybe 10 yrs ago, I've had to start replacing the clear pine that are rotting from the back side (since no paint) and now I just stick with PFJ Cedar. These are now $190 for 120ft or yeah $475/SQ.

Overall, the cedar are much better since impervious to rot and insects. I still have some original boards on the house from 1972 that I pulled off and flipped over that weren't painted on the back side and were fine to reuse. Those are Weyerhaeuser clear cedar. I can't imagine what those cost these days... Wait, I just Googled and saw "As Low as $5.20/Linear foot"...