I'm evaluating options for sound-proofing drywall, and am considering sound-dampening clips such as Genie Clips.

In this approach the drywall isn't directly mounted to the wall studs. How would I hang objects that would normally be mounted through the drywall directly to the stud; such as a wall-mounted TV,or shelving?

  • Have you tried contacting the manufacturer? I'm sure they can answer this question. All I know is if you drive a fastener into a stud you minimize the effect of the clips. Mar 6, 2014 at 3:52
  • One thing I wish I did was install 2x4's horizontally between the furring channels on the inside of my wall. I suppose using a combination of Liquid Nails and drywall screws would keep them eternally attached. This way, you could hang light objects on them such as a TV or light shelving. Don't mount too much weight onto the wall, though. If you're going to mount a TV, make sure it's only the TV. Hopefully, you're mounting one of those lighter LEDs and not an LCD. The less weight, the better. Apr 5, 2014 at 2:15
  • 3
    I'm not an expert on this, but I wouldn't mounting something like a TV to the studs somewhat negate the reasons for going with the drywall clips in the first place--which is to provide structural isolation between the noise and the studs? If that's true, it may make more sense to go with double (offset) studs instead.
    – DA01
    May 5, 2014 at 1:51

1 Answer 1


The sound dampening system you describe builds a metal frame rigidly attached to clips that have rubber isolation bushings. There are two possibilities in attaching items of significant weights.

Directly to the metal framing

This would spread the load over the entire metal beam, much like attaching it to a steel stud. It would not be quite as supportive since the beams are not directly attached to each other or to a sole and top plate.

This approach would probably be sufficient for almost any load a conventional stud mounted approach might support short of things that involve dynamic pressure, such as a punching bag. As usual, mor attachment points spread out the load and reduce chance of failure. I would at least double the number of mounting screws/bolts.

However, such a mount might slightly compromise the acoustic benefits since the object would be rigidly attached to a steel member which could transmit some vibrations. Less of an issue with object that do not vibrate or emit sounds. You also need to ensure that you hit the steel beams but miss the studs and clips. If you hit the stud with a mounting screw, you defeat the clip's isolation function.

Using heavy duty drywall anchors

There are several possibilities discussed in this answer. I would tend toward the newer toggle type anchors that use a 3 inch metal bar to spread the load behind the drywall. These are probably the strongest anchors after direct stud mount. Using a toggle also isolates the load from the steel frame. Drywall is less resonant than steel, so there is less chance of compromising the acoustics, but the panel may act as a bit of a drumhead.

You might want to think of ways to free float heavy objects in front of the wall, on an easel or something similar.

  • 3
    I would never attach a TV to drywall with toggle bolts. Dry wall just doesn't have the strength to support a shear load. The only thing that keeps drywall together in a shear load is two pieces of paper, once one fails the gypsum core will fail.
    – diceless
    Nov 1, 2014 at 5:04
  • 1
    @diceless I wouldn't either. It is possible to get sufficient support with multiple anchors, especially if the mount allows placement widely apart, but its a risky approach. That's why I suggested the stand.
    – bib
    Nov 1, 2014 at 11:34

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