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I want to put an RV hookup on a post next to an RV pad.

Some RVs take 30A/120V, while others take 50A/240V. The main reason for the latter is to let you run two AC units at once, but in our mild climate we never need to use the AC. I just want a neater setup than running an extension cord.

In addition to the 30 outlet, I want to include a 20A convenience recep.

I have seen RV hookup panels with a 30A breaker + recep, and a 20A breaker + recep. I think that means running two separate circuits from the upstream panel, right? I think I can share ground, so I would have 4 conductors total.

Maybe I should put a 30A sub panel at the site, running a single 10/3 cable underground.

What is a good way to set this up?

3 Answers 3

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You can share ground, but I believe you'll get into code issues if you share the neutral, so you'll need 5 wires (Hot 30 Neutral 30 Hot 20 Neutral 20 Ground 20&30) even though the neutrals probably could be shared from a purely electrical point of view.

Ah, wait - you're saying you'd put a 30A 220V sub-panel on the post, so you'd just need the 4 conductors (L1, L2, N, G) to feed that, and then you'd run the receptacles from that sub-panel. Should work and pass code, don't know that it will be cheaper given the need for an exterior-rated sub-panel and a breaker to feed it. Wire is expensive, but maybe not THAT expensive.

Personally, I'd run 1" schedule 80 conduit and pull individual wet-rated wires rather than run a cable. But that's an opinion

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Get yourself a panel like this GE 70 Amp Power Outlet Box

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Install a 30 amp double pole breaker in the panel in your house, and run 10/3 w/ground out to the RV panel. The panel should come factory wired, so all you'll have to do is connect your feed wires.

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  • I think that, as @brad says, this needs either separate neutrals (5 conductors) or an upstream double-pole breaker.
    – Jay Bazuzi
    Mar 5, 2014 at 20:18
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    I mentioned in the answer that you'd need a double pole breaker. You could use a single pole breaker, but you'd have to size the conductors and overcurrent protection at 50 amperes.
    – Tester101
    Mar 5, 2014 at 22:34
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If you want to be able to use the 30A RV/trailer outlet, and the 20A outlet at the same time you can run a 10/3. You would need to have a ganged 30A breaker at the upstream breaker panel, as this is a multi-wire branch circuit. If you go this route you will definitely need to have a 20A breaker at the hookup panel to protect the outlet and anything connected to it. You wouldn't need to have another 30A breaker for the RV outlet as the ganged breaker would be enough protection. It doesn't usually hurt to have an extra one though.

The regular outlet should be protected with GFCI as it is outside. The RV plug doesn't as you would normally only use it with a trailer which would have its own GFCI protection for any outlets that need it.


Another route would be to run a 2-wire cable big enough for 40/50 Amps. This definitely needs a separate breaker for each outlet at the hookup panel.

You could even run a 3-wire version to hook up more outlets.

RV Parks are more likely to be wired this way, as it can reduce the total number of wires that have to be run.

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  • You do need the 30A breaker at the RV outlet, or some other form of disconnect.
    – Tester101
    Mar 5, 2014 at 13:56
  • @Tester101 I don't know why you would need a disconnect for the 30A outlet near it if you used a 30A double pole breaker. There are boxes which has only a 30A outlet and no disconnects. Mar 14, 2014 at 1:17
  • NEC 2011 551.77(B) Disconnecting Means. A disconnecting switch or circuit breaker shall be provided in the site supply equipment for disconnecting the power supply to the recreational vehicle.
    – Tester101
    Mar 14, 2014 at 12:40

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