we recently contracted someone to help us remodel a home in Florida to fix and resell. As it ended up the contractor was not currently licensed. We should have known by the way he was working on things.

He put paper on my Bruce Hardwood floors and secured it with painters tape (blue) from HD. The project was supposed to last three weeks and ended up being 8 weeks. He added layer after layer of paper and tape.

When he was out of here, he and worker pulled up the paper and tape only to reveal long strips some with the grain of the board and some sideways over two or three boards where the tape pulled up the finish coat on the boards.

At first I thought it was glue, but H.D said that here in the south where it is hot, it does not take long for the properties of the glue to change. Thus pulling up the finish with it.

Please advise what would be the least expensive and less intensive way to repair these boards.

I hate the thought of spending a grand to have the entire floor sanded and refinished.

  • 2
    I would suggest contacting the Bruce Hardwood Flooring company customer service group to see what they have to say about re-finish of their materials. Make sure to have the material description of your specific floor available when you talk to them. – Michael Karas Jan 3 '14 at 13:02

Here is a link here for the kit and instructions on its use, if you feel this may do it. Depending on where the damage is, once touched up, furniture placement or rugs may do the rest which I would not recommend, but it is a shortcut instead of the alternative.

The alternative is selective plank replacement. I have seen this done in a few different ways, brute force with chop axe and hammer, more delicate but the same with chisel and hammer which I have done a lot of repairs myself with a chisel. My preferred way now is to use a set to depth circular saw to cut the middle of the plank length wise with 2 cuts about a 1/2" apart. This will keep the blade away from nails or staples that hold the floor. Of course, do not cut into the adjacent pieces, unless they need replacement too. Then with a sharp, wide chisel, say 1-2" wide, split the ends the rest of the way to the neighboring planks. when making this cut, angle the chisel so the crack is wider at the top from both directions so the center piece is easier to remove. There will be a tongue and groove joint to deal with on the ends, so with a smaller sharp chisel cut the center rip in the middle to allow to draw the tongue and groove apart from the adjacent planks. This 1/2" rip from the middle when cut in the middle and lifted out will provide a good "handle to grab to remove the center. Once that is done the groove side of the damaged plank is easy to remove. The tongue side take a little finesse and a dull chisel. enter image description here

To reinstall the new section, remove the bottom half of the tongue. You will most likely need to cut it to length also. Slip the new piece in and nail the back edge where the modified groove is and use a colored wood filler to fill the set nails.

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